from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
Chris Doyle has topped his incredible year of new routing on the coastal limestone with a superb new line at Penmaen Head. The Wizard is Oz F7b+ is Chris’s 24th new route of 2011 and it sounds like a cracker.
It starts up Clogau Gold, but breaks right after the second bolt onto a ledge, before [...]
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from James Pearson
Time in Insbruck is training on the rock and in the gym, which always provides a nice balance of motivation and humiliation. We began preparing ourselves for the next trip to Val di Mello, trying hard to pack well, taking the minimum amount of kit, for the smallest loads up that damn hill. With 150m of static fixed in place and some food and supplies stashed from the time before, I was hopeful for a sub 30kg pack this time round. The addition of a portaledge however played havoc with this plan, and we set
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page shortly, and also on Julia's blog and Hot Aches blog . Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-07-26 The first time I set eyes on Kjerag I knew I wanted to climb it. Perhaps the worlds most famous BASE jumping cliff, this 1000m vertical wall rising straight out from the sea was just asking to be climbed. In most cases dreams like this remain dreams, with logistics, finances and life in general standing firmly in the way, but this time I had my hand held. The Norwegians are such a friendly bunch, and on-it with their organising. As soon as I said I was keen all I
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Hot Aches Productions
This year's major film project is about to commence. We are shortly heading to the island of Hoy with Dave Macleod and Andy Turner to film an ambitious ascent of the Long Hope Route on St John's Head. The Long Hope Route, Pic Dave MacLeod, Click to enlarge But first, a bit of history. The Long Hope Route was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill. They spent 7 days on the wall, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks, and several of the 23 pitches involved some aiding. A first free ascent was made
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
In the last three days I’ve heard a few things about Mountain Rescue teams and how to raise funds for them. First, I was chatting to a friend about raising funds for a rescue team with a shortfall right now. He was trying to think of ideas to raise funds directly by increasing donations or by generating cash by business activities. Second, I was asked (as I often am) to post on my blog and retweet messages pointing at Mountain Rescue sites, or other charitable organisations. Third, I was listening to ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Mountain Library
The Mountain Library rating: ★★★★ Published: 1998 Reading style: easy Images: yes (small selection BW) Lasting memory: Scanning over the long list of accomplished climbers who have chosen to write about their travels in the world mountain world it’s easy to see why the work of Greg Child stands out. His writing allows us to [...]
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In the last weeks of winter, Grant Meekins and Raphael Slawinski put up a bolt-free ice and mixed line at Storm Creek in the Canadian Rockies. The Peach (WI5 M8, 110m) climbs an overhanging scoop of yellow limestone below an "imposing" dagger of ice hanging from the top of the wall. The duo established the climb ground-up in four short pitches. Slawinski first came across the climb in spring of 2008, and bailed from the third pitch on his first attempt. "We retreated from below a radically overhanging ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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