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Injury Update

Image from Google A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy. The injury occurred while attempting the 8 foot sideways dyno on pitch 15. On my first attempt of the season, I threw with everything I had, hoping to stick the move with the muscle memory from last year. I made good contact with


An Teallach with Peter

Yesterday the weirdest thing happened to me. I’d already been to AE at the Belford for an X-ray of my left foot since it was still feeling extremely painful if I weighted the medial side of my foot on the Sesamoid with my big toe pulled up. It was feeling like something was definitely wrong. It was getting worse every day. The X-ray returned a negative for broken bones but just a comment that I had the weirdest feet they had ever seen. But still no explanation for the very targeted pain, except that it


No Rain??

Image from Google With a decent forecast it was time to get out and make the most of it over the weekend.On Friday Michelle took me for my first paddle, 26k down a river near Beauly. It was good to try a different sport and see the area from a different perspective. View from the kayak In the gorge near the end of the day After paddling it was a busy drive back to the Fort through holiday traffic and home to have a BBQ, cool way to end the day! Johann, Suzy, Kieran, Sarah and myself before copious amounts of alcohol were


Ripping the Flake for Arcteryx

Image from Google By Will Stanhope Two months ago I ripped off the flake on Parthian Shot, at Burbage South in the Peak District. Tim Emmett, trusted friend and well-known British climber, belayed me, and eventually piggy-backed me down the trail. Thanks to everyone who lent a hand that evening- I really do appreciate it. I had spent a few days on the gritstone previously and was eager to try a real 'hard grit' line. And Parthian didn't disappoint. Incredible movement on a wild prow, very physical and delicate at the same


"Ripping the Flake" for Arc'teryx

By Will Stanhope Two months ago I ripped off the flake on Parthian Shot, at Burbage South in the Peak District. Tim Emmett, trusted friend and well-known British climber, belayed me, and eventually piggy-backed me down the trail. Thanks to everyone who lent a hand that evening- I really do appreciate it. I had spent a few days on the gritstone previously and was eager to try a real 'hard grit' line. And Parthian didn't disappoint. Incredible movement on a wild prow, very physical and delicate at the same


Muy Caliente E10 - Flash, so close...

Image from Google Whilst it might have seemed to many people that I had dropped off the face of the earth (and I would probably include some of my sponsors, friends and family in those people), I was simply taking a step away from what I knew, and wondering how differently things would appear from another viewpoint. Jacob Schroedel I knew that things would change, they had to - the trouble was I just didn’t know quite how. I wanted to better myself by training my weaknesses, but knew that since my strengths lay in trad,


Training and Injury

Image from Google Hey Steph. Three weeks ago I was riding my bike home from school and my left foot slipped off the pedal, which continued to rotate around and came down behind my achilles tendon and partially severed it (about 50% of it is still intact, so no surgery!). This caused me to front flip over the [...]


Back in the Park

Image from Google Since my project at Lincoln Lake broke, I have been focusing my efforts in RMNP, trying to get up there once a week to try European Human Being. This crimpy V12 has long been on the to-do list and I have finally begun to really apply myself to it. A session last weekend didn't feel too bad but one glaring omission remained, the undercling move to the upper small crimp. This weekend I squeezed in a short session and started to really closely analyze it. Pictured above is the classic position for the move


Thoughts from technique classes

Image from Google Some themes that commonly emerge when coaching movement technique with climbers. Thanks to Rick Marland for the pics from Big Rock at the weekend. The nature of climbing walls - look at the layout of the holds on modern climbing walls. In the main, setters tend to space the holds fairly evenly leading to the sort of position I’m in here, with limbs all at different levels. This makes quite pleasant continuous movement. But keep in mind that a lot of rock types have more patterned arrangements of holds;


The Indian Face

“It’s just a bit of rock”. Tying in to lead The Indian Face Yesterday, I climbed the Indian Face. After a couple of sessions on it last week on a flying visit with Claire, I was eager to go back and get it led. So this weekend Claire and I started the long drive south again, gathering Diff and Tom on the way to film the deed for a wee film we’re thinking of making together. On the way, the forecast got worse, the crag was covered in clouds and the rain started as I was abseiling down the wall to