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Hey Bay Area Climbers!

Hey Bay Area Climbers! The PCI Clinic Series is coming back to San Francisco at Planet Granite! There are only a few spots left for Saturday's Youth Clinic and Adult Semi-Private lessons. Sunday is already SOLD OUT. This time, we will be having Steven Jeffery, Carlo Traversi, Beth Rodden and myself present to teach a 6-hour Youth Clinic and a 2-hour Adult Semi-Private lesson. All the details are below, but the short and sweet of it is: - The youth clinic is going to focus on competition preparation and ...


Op Done

Image from Google On Saturday morning I eventually had surgery on my mashed ankle. The surgeon I ended up getting decided that full fusion was overkill for the time being so they removed the broken floating shards etc which means I'm looking at roughly 2 weeks in a cast and not 2 months.It also means I'll be back to climbing quicker. It means more surgery and pain in the future but that's the futures problem. Missing days out at the crag and the shared banter and risk- Pic-Dorota Bankowska In the time I've had off from ...


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


Lonnie Dupre Returns To Denali This Winter

Image from Google The winter season will certainly be an interesting one this year. Not only are the Russians taking on K2 , but now ExWeb is reporting that Lonnie Dupre will return to Denali, where he hopes to make the first solo winter ascent of that mountain in January. This will be round 2 for Dupre and Denali, with the mountain winning their first bout last year. Last year, Dupre traveled to Alaska in the coldest and darkest portion of winter just to attempt to scale the 6193 meter (20,320 ft) peak at the most ...


Mescalito goes free…?

Image from Google I climb for the long, difficult journeys that have little chance of success but teach me the most. I climb to be in the environment that makes me feel like anything is possible. I climb to push myself to the limit of my physical and mental abilities, so that I can discover what I am [...] Mescalito goes free? is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also like: Basildon gets a new climbing wall Welsh mountain


Black Canyon Regulations

Image from Google Proposed Changes to Climbing Regulations in the Black Canyon The management of the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO, is being reevaluated. Since 2004 climbing in the park has been regulated under the Interim Climbing Management Plan, a temporary set of policies that governed the park's activities until an environmental assessment was completed. Upon completion of the environmental assessment, the National Park Service has revised the management policies for the entire park, to ...


New Everest Documentary Spawns Reality Series

Image from Google A new Everest documentary entitled 40 Days at Base Camp , made its debut at the Vancouver International Film Festival last week, and will headline the Banff Mountain Film Festival next week. By all accounts, it is a gripping look at what happens on the mountain during a typical climbing season. Evidently, the film must be something special, as filmmaker Dianne Whelan has already been commissioned to return to Everest next spring to shoot an 8-part reality series on the North Side of the mountain. The show


Fall 2011 Whiteline

Image from Google ARC'TERYX Whiteline garments engineered with GORE-TEX® product technology have raised the limits of outdoor performance, aiding snowsports athletes in their quest for greater physical accomplishments with superior protection and maximum personal comfort.


Century Crack 2 by Stevie Good Job Haston

Image from Google WARNING : Don’t read this if you are not a nerdy climber! Mine is bigger than yours! I had a couple of Emails late last from America concerning the ethics of Trad-climbing and crack climbing, mainly from older climbers or people with a strong foundation in climbing on gear. Climbing on gear is very special in that it allows you to protect your route without anything being in place and thus ‘clean’, it is in fact termed clean climbing sometimes, and it also allows you at its best to do new routes ...