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Bishop Overview

Now that we have wrapped up our stay in Bishop, I thought I would write up a brief overview of the area. All in all, we found Bishop to be exceptionally convenient, with a huge concentration of superb bouldering and a town with everything you need just a few miles away. The locals (even cops) [...]


Avioding Creepy Crawlies on Tioman Island

On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress (5.10R/X, 270m) marks the first recorded ascent of the Horns' north tower, and Batu Naga (5.12R 300m) climbs "one of the proudest looking lines on the entire formation" up a prominent buttress on the south tower. Wright heard about the formation from Scotty Nelson, who did the first ascent of the south tower in 1999 and ...


Chinese American Team Makes First Ascent of 6060m Mt. Yangmolong

Image from Google On October 20 (2011) Jon Otto, Liu Yong (Daliu), Su Rongqin (Asu), and Tim Boelter made the first successful ascent of Mt. Yangmolong (6060m) in western Sichuan province of China. The conditions were better than hoped for and the was route fun and sustained. This peak is part of the Shaluli Shan Range and is on the border with eastern Tibet. This entire region is known as Kham and is ethnically Tibetan. Most of Yangmolong's north side is covered in unstable hanging glacier seracs high up on its face. The


Guess Where Swanky Will Break Down(First)? Or – A Pool to Fund Repairs

Last year, Swanky the van was brand new, to me. I bought it from a cop, and my mother(who was a nurse) once told me “Eye doctors can't see; ear doctors are deaf, and psychiatrists are crazy.” Well, I figure that line of thinking probably goes beyond the boundaries of the medical field, if you know what I mean. Now I know there are plenty of optometrists with 20/20 vision, just like most police are law-abiding citizens, but if the lies this guy told me about that van weren't a crime, I don't know what


Off the scale!

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-10-25 China . A country just over the edge of the radar. A little exploration here and there. But it is vast, and only just opening up. Are we in for a surprise as the view unfolds! People talk of our rock running out, but here in China we have not even begun. The Petzl rock trip is beginning at the area of Getu, a national park, only opened up maybe 10 years ago. Before that the only eyes that passed over the mind blowing scenery were that of the locals. But we are ...


Traffic Supervisor

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Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...


Adam Campbell Runs the Courmayer Champex Chamonix Race

***This race report was written under intense jet lag, after way too many hours of travel and intense post race fatigue & sleep deprivation!. "Remember to smile out there!" This message, posted to my Facebook wall by Peter Watson, was my mantra for almost 10.5 hours last Friday. It was good advice that dramatically changed my perception of a rather uncomfortable experience. I was running the Courmayer-Champex-Chamonix (CCC) race at the Ultra Trail de Mont Blanc (UTMB) race festival. Starting in Italy, this


Peak Lenin Expedition 2011

Keywords:
Dave.P, climbing, Dave, Wesley, days, Ian, ABC, One, back, BC

Image from Google Peak Lenin It’s now the beginning of September and after a highly eventful and emotional past 4 weeks, I have another long overdue blog to write, whilst I try my upmost to avoid getting burnt in this scorcher of a British summer. It does seem I have been slightly unlucky with the weather, missing the ‘real’ summer this April with a long revision period, however my luck changed during late July and early August as I ventured to Kyrgyzstan, a country famous for..?! What followed was the trip of a ...


Bongo Bar first free ascent, Blamman

On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page shortly, and also on Julia's blog and Hot Aches blog . Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I