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Webb & Voges at HCR

Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges and friends are spending some time at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas. The boys seem to be enjoying themselves, and Brion has done his first 8B+, Dave Graham's Lost in the hood. The main difficulty of this problem is the very first move, a weird off balance deadpoint/catch. After that, the rest is easier, around 7B+ or so according to Jimmy, and once Brion manage to stick the first move, he didn't let go. Jimmy was also very close, and is also close on both Wood...


Giri-Giri Boys Turn Back on Latok I

Image from Google The north ridge of Latok I (7145m) has defeated yet another impressive team of climbers, this time three of the Giri-Giri Boys from Japan. Facing perilous snow conditions, Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Katsutaka "Jumbo" Yokoyama turned around about halfway into the 2500-meter ridge. Their effort on the north ridge came after a failed attempt on the north face. The team turned back at roughly the same high point, ca. 5900 meters, on both efforts. Hiroshi Hagawari of Rock and Snow reported that Yokoyama


A few questions to Martin Schidlowski

Before his ascent of Adrenalin the other day, the name Martin Schidlowski was unknown to me. Probably, this was true for most of you as well. I decided to ask the 19-year-old a few questions . Who's Martin Schidlowski? I'm a student from Southern Bavaria who started climbing 5 years ago. My favourite crag is Karlstein, an area mainly bolted by the Huber brothers What does this ascent mean to you? A step further into a new level. First route in the German 11th grade. Can you describe the route? About 16 ...


Interview with Arthur Kubista

A while back, Arthur Kubista spent his 45th birthday making the FA of Der lange Atem at Schattenreich, Austria. I and Pierre Délas decided to ask him a few questions. This interview will be published in French on Kairn , as soon as Pierre has translated it. First of all: thank you for your interest! I would like to mention that I am not a friend of superlatives; statements like"best achievement ....in history of climbing" is exactly what I'm not so happy with: it feels a bit likesensation-mongering, ...


Andreas Bindhammer on La novena enmienda

A few weeks back, German veteran Andreas Bindhammer repeated La novena enmienda, ~9a+, at Santa Linya, Spain. Pierre Délas from Kairn ,has made an interview. If you prefer reading it in French, Pierre says it will probably be up on Kairn tomorrow (Sunday). Here we go: After PuntX and Big Hammer last year, November is your month? Right – October and November are perfect months for hard redpoints: low temperatures, mostly dry and windy… Could be October or November all the year… ;-) It was your second


10 Questions for Adam Ondra

Here's an exclusive interview made by Pierre Délas for Bealplanet.com Is Marina superstar the most difficult route you have ever done? Compared to Papichulo , Corona or Open air ? Compared to other 9a+'s I have done, this route is a small step above all of these. Very important for me is that I made a first ascent of such a perfect and beautiful line. However, I would be even happier if I had found it and bolted it myself. But now I have too little time to do these things. Therefore I have to thank Matteo


2009-09-25 18:09:00

For the remainder of the trip the blue skies graced us only briefly with their presence. Most mornings were damp from thunderstorms during the previous night, some of which were so bad that Em declared she thought she was going to die, when one of the bolts exploded a little too close for comfort. This left the rock a little out of prime condition until mid to late afternoon, but no-one complained too much as it was the perfect excuse for a lay start. After a few days we decided to venture to less familiar