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Cold Wars – Andy Kirkpatrick

Image from Google Andy Kirkpatrick is a man who’s not afraid to look unflinchingly at himself in the mirror, and he’s not afraid to write about what he finds. Even as this book was being published, he was making a solo attempt on the Troll Wall in Norway, getting his fill of the “cold and suffering” in which [...] Cold Wars – Andy Kirkpatrick is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also like: Andy Kirkpatricks talk


The Mirror of Simple Souls and the Sakuru Michi, by Simple Stevie Haston

The mirror tells the truth! I don’t look like a runner; I don’t look like a rock climber! I am in deep trouble, a bog of treacle. I sacrificed a lot to become excellent at rockclimbing and it worked, I am trying to do the same at running and it’s not working. I became a bit depressed, so I took time off work to get on track with the running. It worked in a way. I did 100 mountain miles and alotta up and down. I had some tendinitis in the ankle and my patella was a bit stuck at the start of the week.


Daddy Cool E8 - Flash

Years ago I remember seeing a picture of this route in an old copy of Climb. I recall a mirror like wall, a solitary climber looking longingly at an even more solitary looking peg, and all above a horrible stepped rocky landing. The route looked great, yet horrendous at the same time, and I was fascinated, intrigued, but also repelled. My first hard traditional routes were usually bold and insecure. I was too weak to climb hard routes any other way, but after coming very close to slipping from a dangerous


Helmet Fire

A friend of mine calls any situation where the space between your ears stops working a "helmet fire." I love that expression; it's so descriptive of the times when we just stop thinking about the exterior world or "reality" and burn up in a mental paroxysm of self-fueled mental combustion. Every sport has it's "helmet fire" situations; pro athletes choke, skiers crash getting off the chairlift, novice climbers turn into jello and cling to the rock like terrified children, good leaders suddenly can't do a


Running stuff, and other stuff, by Stevie Haston.

I like running, trouble is I like other stuff too. What to do with your time, how to divide time, share it, apportion it, is always a major problem. I try to keep a lot of time for myself, but seem to be running out. And of course the worst is that some activities are counterproductive, they don’t actually help each other or go hand in hand; you know all this. So the other day when I went climbing at a hard venue I couldn’t get my lightest harness on because my legs are too big! Too much pizza, too ...


David Lama and Cerro Torre

Red Bull can found in Upper Chaos Canyon, July 2010 One of the most interesting debates raging in the climbing community right now is the issue of Austrian climber David Lama's attempt to free climb Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Lama's sponsor agreed to underwrite the trip but wanted a high-production value film out of it. The quick summary is that in the effort to make a film of the climb, a team of guides added extra bolts to safeguard the film crew and ultimately abandoned a fair amount of gear on the ...


In the Footsteps of John Gill

Image from Google One of the side-affects of this blog has been publication in print including an article recently published in the Alpinist. I want to write more about it later but through it, I met the historian Kerwin Klein, currently teaching at UC Berkeley. A long-time boulderer, Klein was in Boulder researching material for a book on the cultural history of climbing. He writes a blog about climbing history called alpinehistory.com and his most recent entry is about the relationship between late 20th century American


My bestest route, Cannabis by stevie haston.

Keywords:
de, Ce, mes, Les, climbing, climbers, men, Ans, Nous, son

Years go by, and you do little. A whole life can go by in the blink of an eye, without a single glorious moment. Even when you do climb well, most times, it’s just filling in the dots, and dashes. The last new route I did, is different from the ordinary, it’s very fine, interstellar, galactic, cosmic even. Why so? Try this, It’s a 70 meter pitch, It overhangs 20 meters It is on wires and friends on loose rock It finishes with 15 meters of ice Yet you do two thirds in rock shoes It’s hardish For me


Words that kill, by Stevie Erudities Haston

Sticks and stones may hurt your bones, but words will never hurt you. You’ve obviously heard that one, haven’t you? Well when I heard it in a class room, I quickly interjected with ‘what about giant turds’ I was six, my deaf teacher asked me what I meant by ‘thirds being able to inflict harm’, I gamely repeated ‘turds’, ‘ah turds’ he uttered witheringly, full comprehension dawning, ‘yes indeed’, and here pausing for breath, he clouted me a good one behind the ear, ‘turds can be


Land of the Giants

Image from Google Californias first national park is home to world-famous trees, including the biggest one on Earth. Yet even with such mighty credentials, Sequoia National Park sees few visitors in the winter. With a commute thats comparable to Tahoe, what are you waiting for? Fairy Trail Mirror, mirror on the wall, which tree in the world is the largest of all? At 275 feet tall and with a diameter of 36.5 feet, the General Sherman tree is the biggest living thing on Earth. Summer is when tourists buzz around this behemoth