from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
published: 5 months ago
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from Rock Climbing UK
Keywords:
Dry Tooling,
Foundry,
ice,
mixed climbing,
Sheffield,
plenty of seasons ice,
Water Ice in Norway,
seasons ice,
years, ,
Lakeland Classic
I’ve done plenty of seasons ice climbing over the last 13 years, I’ve done gully’s and ridges in Scotland and the Lakes, climbed Water Ice in Norway and in the Alps, but so far I’ve never done any of serious mixed climbing, sure I’ve torqued an icy crack on a buttress when the ice has [...] Dry Tooling At The Foundry, Sheffield is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also like: FigFour Training
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
A week of coaching abroad last week marked the end of a crazy few months of various work projects. Last week was very strange, going climbing every day and having great days but only on easy routes. I was absolutely stir crazy on the way home to pull hard on some small holds again. The need to take things to extremes seems to be a deep set part of human nature, and not just ego driven need to stand out from a crowd. Climbing at a relaxed pace without battling my way up routes to the last just doesn’t ...
published: 5 months ago
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from JackGeldard.com
Its still mild temperatures and reasonable weather here in Chamonix, today excepted, as its raining. However with the onset of winter comes tantalising thoughts of ice and mixed climbing, as well as skiing. But for the time being Im having a short break from climbing. Ill be popping down the wall a couple of times [...]
published: 6 months ago
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from Climber's Blog
The crux of the Croz Spur, photos and content courtesy of Dave SearleSo I had a problem.... I had just bought a brand new pair of scarpa 6000's and I didn't have a crampon to fit on them. I prefer using Mono points for mixed climbing and I knew that if...
published: 6 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy recently made the first ascent of Pakistan's Hassan Peak (6300m). Hassan Peak is located in Pakistan's Charakusa Valley just north of K6. The pair climbed the peak via it's previously attempted west face overcoming difficulties of WI5, M5 on their two day ascent. Steve Swenson, Hans Mitterer and Raphael Slawinski attempted Hassan Peak in 2005, but retreated from dangerous conditions 300 meters below the summit. Dempster told Alpinist.com that Hassan Peak as seen from base
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
American climbers John Frieh, Zac West and Davie Burdick claimed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8500-foot tower west of Mount Burkett on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. The expedition was funded by the Copp Dash Inspire Award and the Mazamas Climbing Club. The trio's new route, Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 AI3 M5), is the sixth ascent of the peak. The Burkett Needle was first climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and Dan Davis on the north buttress. The mountain was not summited for a
published: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 15 and August 10, Richard Tremellen and Alex Brighton made two first ascents, and a failed attempt on peak 5318, while climbing in the Djarngart region of Kyrgyzstan. "The unknown presented as much of a challenge as anything we would face on the mountains themselves." Brighton and Tremellen were awed by the beauty of the remote valley. Like Denis Urubko, Bas van der Smeede, and Kristoffer Szilas, Brighton and Tremellen were inspired by Matt Traver and Mike Royer's trip report from the Djangart
published: 9 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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from Rock Climbing UK
We’ve had a long cold winter, but the snow and ice are long gone and for ice climbers looking to keep their arms and axes synchronised and to practice their figures of nine and double hand swaps, dry tooling is the answer. The sport has also grown in popularity over recent years and is now [...] Dry Tooling Evil crag wrecking practice or legitimate training technique? is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you ...
published: 11 months ago
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