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Caro's Katmandou

Image from Google She did it!!! Hard work, determination, and a little helping of pride really do work wonders. After the first session on Les Chemins de Katmandou, where she barely managed the crux move 1 in 5 tries, Caroline topped out on her ascent of the entire route early last week, 4 th ascent and 1 st female ascent (as far as I know), a fine effort indeed. We headed back to La Jonte to meet up with Facancisco Taranto Jr for a photo shoot after the Millau Natural Games. Caro had just finished a 3 day team training ...


Frog prohpesies by Ghesquiers

Yann Ghesquiers, probably best known for having flashed an 8b+ slab pitch on Tough enough, a Multi-pitch on Madagascar I've got a feeling we'll here more about in the immediate future... anyway, 38 year old Yann has made the first ascent of La prophétie des grenouilles, at Rocher des Brunes, Briançon, France. He gave it 9a, which would make it the 3rd of this grade in the region. The two other, San Ku Kaï and Condé de Choc, both by Tony Lamiche, can be found at Entraygues. Source:...


Update xtravaganza + video

Things have been going down, or up rather, lately that I haven't had time to report: Nina Caprez has repeated Arnaud Petit's 250m 8-pitch Ali Baba at Aiglun in southern France. With pitches of 8a, 8a, 7b+, 8a, 8a+, 8a/+ and 7b+, it's one of the hardest multi-pitches ever done by a woman. Other routes on that list are Ramirole, done by Florent Pinet and Yeah man done by Josune Bereziartu. Nina seconded Arnaud on the FA, came close to doing a couple of times shortly after, went away for a while...


Andrada onsights 13 pitch 8a/+

Dani Andrada has onsighted the 400m 13 pitch Zaratustra, ~8a/+, on the Pilar del Cotatuero, Spain. The free version of the route was put up by Manu Cordoba and Mikel Zabalza in 1997, and first freed by the Pou brothers. Although best known as a single pitch sport climber, the Spanish Machina is no stranger to multi-pitches, having done routes like the 6 pitch Lurgorri, ~8c+, and Hotel Supramonte, 8b, previously. When I talked to the man a couple of years ago, he said he had found a...


Pou-brothers = old warriors

Iker and Eneko Pou, for some obscure reason known as the Pou-brothers, are no strangers to difficult climbing, be it bouldering, sport climbing, multi-pitches or ice. Having reached the respectable ages of 33 and 37, they felt they quaified as "old warriors" and set their sights on Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla's route known by that name, Solo per vecchi guerrieri on the south face of Vette Feltrine, close to Aune in north eastern Italy. The 150 m route is divided into four pitches given somewhere...


10 Questions for Adam Ondra

Here's an exclusive interview made by Pierre Délas for Bealplanet.com Is Marina superstar the most difficult route you have ever done? Compared to Papichulo , Corona or Open air ? Compared to other 9a+'s I have done, this route is a small step above all of these. Very important for me is that I made a first ascent of such a perfect and beautiful line. However, I would be even happier if I had found it and bolted it myself. But now I have too little time to do these things. Therefore I have to thank Matteo


Toni Lamprecht

Image from Google .nounderline:hover { border-bottom:none !important } Born: 28.04.71 in Starnberg, Germany Height: 188cm (6' 3") Weight: 80-90 Kg Born in southern Germany I started going to the mountains with my family at the age of 4. Together with my Dad, we climbed several 4,000-meter peaks in Switzerland in the early 80's. After a "short" alpine climbing career at the age of 14, I began looking for a new challenge and finally discovered "real" climbing. During the following years I became a "climbing-junkie"; I ...