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Adam Campbell Knee Knacker Race Report

Keywords:
Aaron, Races, lie, Ollie, back, win, trail, chase, fuck, split

Image from Google Four of us are standing around, knee deep in the chilly northern Pacific Ocean, trying desperately to offset and numb the pain in our legs. We can barely feel the crushed rocks and shells under our feet. Salt is crusted on our faces and jerseys, we all look a dazed, squinting into the sun thats bathing the cove, as our bodies struggle to come back into balance. Were mumbling inanely, wrestling with our incoherent and tired thoughts, but happy to no longer be trapped in our internal monologue. We chatter


Sport Climbing season done, paragliding, MORE is not safer

Image from Google Buy this book: A great new resource for local sport climbing, thanks to Derek for his work. Yesterday I got out with my least-repressed friend, Mr. Tim Emmett, along with Mr. Slawinski and Mr. K.H., who does not want his name on the internet. We visited The Notch, another really good craig in Echo Canyon (and covered in Derek's Bow Valley Sport). The Notch looks across the wide canyon to the Lookout, where I've spent at least 10 days this spring. Both craigs are over an over an hour of walking from the ...


5.14a Onsight By Sasha DiGiulian In The Red River Gorge

Image from Google Sasha DiGiulian is having a pretty good week in Kentuckys Red River Gorge sending Southern Smoke (5.14c) on Saturday and now, according to her Facebook profile, onsighting the 130 ft. Omaha Beach (5.14a).  Omaha Beach was onsighted a long time ago by Katie Brown at .13d but subsequent hold breaks have upped the grade a notch.  Impressive work! [...] 5.14a Onsight By Sasha DiGiulian In The Red River Gorge from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Petzl Roctrip


My world climbing trip recap

Well, it's true. I am back in Australia and back in my own house. In the end, it was 11 months on the road. Climbing destinations included: Kalymnos (Greece), Geyikbayiri , Olympos (Turkey), Boulder , Rifle , Maple Canyon , Ten Sleep Canyon (all USA), Rodellar , Margalef , Arboli , Riglos (all Spain), Vietnam , Hong Kong , Yangshuo (China), Railay (Thailand). Usually, my trips away are pretty short and sweet, so it's go go go the whole time and collapse when you get back home. This was quite different. You


New Route Sets Stage for 5th Annual Smuggs' Ice Bash

Image from Google Momentum is building in Vermont as local New Englanders gear up for this weekend's Alpinist/ Smuggs Ice Bash 2011. John Hurst and Ryan Brooks set the standards high, establishing Tiny Dancer (M8) on January 21st at Lake Willoughby, right here in Alpinist's backyard. The short line begins on ice, but quickly moves through overhanging rock before reaching an ice ledge at the first belay. The second pitch follows a crack and flake system, and then finishes through a final ice curtain to the top. Hurst and ...


Karl Meltzer Runs "the Human Express"

I'm not sure how this one escaped my notice, but I read about it last night and then caught another post over at the Outside Blog this morning. It seems that ultra-endurance run Karl Meltzer has just completed a 2064-mile (3321km) run along the old Pony Express trail, beginning in Sacramento and ending in St. Joseph, Missouri. The run was christened the Human Express and was sponsored by Red Bull . Karl got underway on September 15th and took just 40 days to finish the journey, which included him crossing


Finding the positives

As you can probably guess, by the fact that my blog posts have slowed to an intermittent crawl over the last few months and that when I do post it tends to be all doom and gloom, I've been struggling a bit this summer. Struggling with what it means to be a climber who doesn't climb. I've had lots of welcome distractions particularly domestically but also with my new job helping edit Climb Magazine (by the way our second issue, Number 69, is now at the printers and it's another notch forward) but selfishly


Diablo Traverse: Haley, Schaefer Link Devil's Thumb Massif

Mikey Schaefer and I have just come back to Seattle from a quick, fantastic trip to the Stikine Icecap region, on the BC-Alaska border, near Petersburg, Alaska. I had been planning to visit Devil's Thumb for years, but until now never made it to this beautiful mountain range. Our objective was a complete traverse of the Devil's Thumb massif, climbing over the summits of the Witches Tits, Cat's Ears Spires, and finally Devil's Thumb itself. Like the Torres Traverse to Ermanno Salvaterra, this traverse ...


Malc Smith climbs Scotland's hardest

Last evening, Malcolm Smith made the FA of Hunger, at The Anvil: First ascent of 'Hunger' 9a at the Anvil this evening. It ended up feeling a notch harder than 'Blood Diamond', more sustained. I've maybe climbed harder on the boulders but it's certainly my hardest route so far. Thanks for going out Mark! Stay tuned for an interview with the man


Ship of Fools

After a month or more of reading about everyone else having fun up in Scotland I finally managed to get up there myself. A great day out with young hotshot Greg Boswell, and nice to end the season on a high note rather than watch the season fade away. We knew we'd need to head high for conditions, and it doesn't get higher than Indicator Wall. I had my eye on Ship of Fools a route established by Iain Small and Simon Richardson in 2007. Greg starting up Pitch 1 I'd been intrigued by this route ever since I