from Rock Climbing UK
With the arrival of the New Year, now’s a perfect time to plan your rock climbing objectives for 2012 and develop a training program that will help achieve them. These objectives can be anything from doing your first E1, increasing your climbing grade from 7a to 7c or doing a specific route. Using a Scoring [...] Turbo Charged New Years Training Resolutions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also ...
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Whilst dining at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu after the ascent of Baruntse Mera Peak , I decided to buy ‘The Ascent of Rum Doodle’ by W.E. Bowman. I had heard great reviews from the leaders and people who had previously read the book which is held in high regard among climbers. Reading the book is a delight, and the story pure genius. As I cannot do the book sufficient justice, below is an extract. If you understand the humour of this page and have never read the book, I strongly urge you to
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from The Alpinist - newswire
2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that
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from The Adventure Blog
Keywords:
winners,
American Alpine Club,
Karakoram,
3rd highest unclimbed peak,
Fund Climbs,
$12k,
7,221m,
American Alpine Club Hands,
highly skilled climbers,
stunning 6,651m tower
The American Alpine Club has announced the winners of the 2012 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards , which are given annually to small teams making first ascents or other challenging climbs on some of the toughest mountains on the planet. This year, the bold climbers who have earned this recognition seem keenly focused on objectives in Pakistan and China. The winners each receive grants to help fund their expeditions, and the 2012 honorees certainly have some ambitious plans. The list includes the following:
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from Mountains and Water
About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...
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from The Alpinist - newswire
S lovenian climbers made the first ascent of a major summit in the Western Kokshaal-too of Kyrgyzstan this season. Pik Byeliy (5697m) was the highest unclimbed peak in the Western Kokshaal-too and has been the objective of many expeditions to the area over the past decade. The Western Kokshaal-too forms part of the Tien Shan range along the border of China and Kyrgyzstan. Americans Jerry Dodrill, Mike Libecki, Doug and Jed Workman made the first major attempt at Peak Byeliy in 2000 from the southwest ridge
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from INCLINED
The 2011 Copp-Dash Inspire Award, presented to 5 teams this year, allowed the completion of a stunning new route on the Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska. The Copp-Dash Award was established in 2009 to honor Johnny Copp and Micah Dash, two top-notch alpinists that were killed while pursuing a new route in China’s Sichuan Province. This award is given annually to teams whose values and objectives align with Johnny’s and Micah’s: new routes put up in good style, in far-flung ranges across the globe.
published: 8 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
This year a remarkable anniversary in the sport of climbing has gone virtually unnoticed. I was particularly reminded of it when I sat down to talk with John Gill yesterday in Pueblo at a local coffee place. In the spring of 1961, over fifty years ago, according to an interview in the first edition of Master of Rock, John Gill did the first ascent of the Thimble Overhang, a 30-foot problem/route that became legendary in the history of world climbing. Climbed onsight solo over a very serious landing, it was
published: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD OPENS FOR APPLICATIONS OCTOBER 1, 2011 Ventura, CA (September 15, 2011) -- From October 1, 2011 through December 15, 2011, the 2012 Mugs Stump Award will be accepting grant applications from small climbing teams with fast and light alpine objectives. Established in 1993 to honor the late Mugs Stump, each year the Mugs Stump Award awards grants to a select number of individuals and teams whose proposed climbs present an outstanding challenge-a first ascent, significant repeat or first
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 15 and August 10, Richard Tremellen and Alex Brighton made two first ascents, and a failed attempt on peak 5318, while climbing in the Djarngart region of Kyrgyzstan. "The unknown presented as much of a challenge as anything we would face on the mountains themselves." Brighton and Tremellen were awed by the beauty of the remote valley. Like Denis Urubko, Bas van der Smeede, and Kristoffer Szilas, Brighton and Tremellen were inspired by Matt Traver and Mike Royer's trip report from the Djangart
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