from The Alpinist - newswire
American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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55 views
from Upskill Climbing
Alright. After the team's first couple of days a rest day was in order. So we piled into the Upskill limousine and began our Kalymnos mega tour. The main port town Pothia, the impressive church and monastery of Saint Savaas, and the scenic township of Vathy were all ticked. In order to work up an appetite, we decided some swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping was in order... The water was just as good as it looks here. I've got a mighty spring going in this photo. At our restaurant at Vathy which is an
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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46 views
from Online Climbing Coach
The limiting factor in your rate of improvement can sometimes be something that never changes throughout your climbing career. That’s not to say they are inescapable, just that folk simply never take the bull by the horns and change them. ‘Permanent’ limiting factors are things like only climbing a couple of times a week, avoiding overhangs, never learning how to try hard or focus, or being scared of falling. Other limiting factors are more often important for part of your career. Things such as ...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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33 views
from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
Soames Whittingham and Matt Reynolds have produced a series of interesting new routes in the Ty’n Tywyn Quarries, near Llanbedrog on the Lleyn Peninsular.
First up is Inter-Stella Ella, a three pitch VS 4b following a right-to-left rising traverse line under the overhangs in quarry 5. Secondly, is The Ever Shifting Schmoo HVS 5a, a five [...]
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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16 views
from Outdoor Habit
A lot has happened since my last post. As most of you know, my residence in Boulder has come to an end and I've moved to Gainesville, FL. Needless to say, things are a bit different here. The people are larger, the food is greasier and the landscape is flatter. At least there's a climbing gym... The Gainesville Rock Gym, vertical toproping, overhang/"lead" wall in the back And that's what I want to talk about today: the merits and failings of the Gainesville Rock Gym . I've been in Gainesville for about
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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117 views
from Hot Aches Productions
Yesterday at 20:40 Dave Macleod was sat on top of St John's Head having just completed the first ascent of Longhope Direct. The full route, at 500m, took Dave and And y just under 10 hours to complete. The Guillotine pitch - Lukasz Warzecha When asked about the grade, an elated Dave said that he isn't entirely sure just yet, but knows that it's definitely harder than Rhapsody (E11 7a), the route he climbed at Dumbarton Rock in 2006. Dave on Rhapsody - Hot Aches Productions Upon hearing the news, Jon Arran
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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65 views
from UKClimbing.com News
Iker Pou, one of the world's premiere all rounders, has recently made the first ascents of two high end routes near his home in the Basque country.
Two real gems. The first is Akelarre which is a 65-metre 9a, and the second Celedon Txiki, a 30-metre 8c+/9a route.
Akelarre is a route of two very distinct parts: the first is 40 meters long, and consists of an overhang with great holds, followed by a 25-metre vertical and slightly overhanging bouldery section.
The hardest part of the route...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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65 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
A story by Jvan Tresch When my friend Jürgen Bissig—we call him "Spiri"—first showed me a picture of the Chalchschijen I knew that we needed to climb this amazing wall! The Chalchschijen stands at the far end of Maderanertal Kanton Uri, Switzerland, not far from where we live. The wall seems close but the approach is definately hard core! It’s all trackless terrain, where one false step could be fatal. After a seven hour hike in you reach one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever experienced. ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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91 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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97 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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60 views
