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Smiths Route, Ben Nevis

Image from Google There was a really good atmosphere up on Ben Nevis today, its always great when you see lots of people you know. Kenny , John and I headed up into Observatory gully with quite an open mind. Word had got round that some ice routes were quite fat. They were not wrong. There were several teams ahead and behind us, all heading up into the same area. At first it looked like 3 teams were heading for Smiths but fortunately they all went their separate ways. One them headed up Tower Gully (I), Luke and Conrad went


Double training

Image from Google Today was a perfect for the outdoor and indoor combination. With a nice morning forecast, John, Johnny and I headed up into Glencoe to have a play around on some of the steep snow slopes within Coire nan Tulach. The aim of the day was to workshop our short roping skills and share ideas about ways of looking after people on steep snow. We played around with various techniques looking at the pro's and con's, discussed when each technique is best applied under different conditions. We looked at ascending and


The Ascent Of Rum Doodle

Image from Google Whilst dining at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu after the ascent of Baruntse Mera Peak , I decided to buy ‘The Ascent of Rum Doodle’ by W.E. Bowman. I had heard great reviews from the leaders and people who had previously read the book which is held in high regard among climbers. Reading the book is a delight, and the story pure genius. As I cannot do the book sufficient justice, below is an extract. If you understand the humour of this page and have never read the book, I strongly urge you to


10 of the best Long runs, by Stevie Slow Haston.

Keywords:
Mountain, runner, km, tenth, race, one, gi, start, miler, ultra

Image from Google Got alotta letters asking about great runs, and rather than keep wasting my time replying, and changing my opinion, I thought I’d set it in stone. There are many great runs, but there is only one that rules them, but more of that later. First this planet of ours is still incredible in its beauty and diversity, so we should as citizens of the world, take notice, take part, and do our best to keep at least. some corners of it immaculate, as mountain runners I hope we do that, and don’t drop those little


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Ten Travel Adventures For 2012

Image from Google Awhile back, when posting on Nat Geo's selection of adventure travel destinations for 2012,I indicated that I would also be sharing a similar list in the near future. That list has just gone live over at Gadling.com , and you can read it by clicking here . When compiling my list of travel adventures for the year ahead, I wanted to do something a bit different this year. Rather than sharing a generic rundown of great destinations - which we all probably know about already - I thought I would share some very


NY Mets Pitcher To Climb Kilimanjaro Against Team's Wishes

Image from Google R.A. Dickey , a pitcher for the New York Mets baseball team, will set off tomorrow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa, despite the wishes of the ball club. Dickey will be making the climb as part of a fundraiser for Bombay Teen Challenge , organization dedicated to rescuing and saving young sex slaves that are put to work in brothels in India. He will be joined on the trek byDave Racaniello, abullpen catcher for the Mets,and Colorado Rockies pitcher Kevin Slowey, who is a former teammate. When the Mets got


La Sportiva Electron GTX, By Stevie Swift Haston.

Image from Google Another great running shoe from Sportiva. The sole is a very deep, undulating waffle, wave thingy. The sole is the interesting bit, it initially put me off because it differs from more trad soles but I have learned how to enjoy it. The idea is that it will bend and conform to shapes and angles in the slope and it does do this very well. The rubber is very adherent and it has a very good grip on slabby rock. I sometimes don’t take a pair off for a week, as it is a good approach shoe and good to look at.


Alex Biale, Rastaman Vibration

Image from Google This news has been covered elsewhere I know, but I want to give props to Alex Biale for his ascent of Rastaman Vibration (v12) on the Grandpa Peabody on December 15. It is interesting to note that, although this line was first climbed by Jared Roth back in 2002, it had never before been repeated! Indeed, Rastaman Vibration begins with one of the hardest moves at the 'Milks, a big move from a miserable pinch to gain a tiny right-hand crimp, feet swinging. Most people now know this move from images or video


Russian/Ukrainian Women Climb New Route on Great Trango

Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the