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Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


Denali Testimonal

"Outstanding Experience - Once in a lifetime! The AMS team made it possible. The guides were first class and the logistics flawless. Well done and sincere thanks!" T. Berman The phones are ringing and emails are arriving, D...


Denali Testimonal

Image from Google "Outstanding Experience - Once in a lifetime! The AMS team made it possible. The guides were first class and the logistics flawless. Well done and sincere thanks!" T. Berman The phones are ringing and emails are arriving, Denali is on lots of climber's minds. Today is a good day to give you an update on expeditions. 2012 EXPEDITIONS Denali, West Buttress, 21 Days, $6,400 6 climbers: 2-3 guides April 27 - May 17 - 6 spaces available! April 29 - May 19 - 6 spaces available! May 11 - 31 - 6 spaces available!


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 8 (Arhi, SG and the GG)

Keywords:
Bo, Arhi, DNA, DNA 7a, Susy, SG, TICKAGE, Andy, Owen, Komak

ARHI For our dose of vitamin D on day three we headed to Arhi. The left-side was in the sun at 9:30am when we arrived but temps were low, and the group punched out some long slabs up to 40m (!!) in length which required lowering off in two stages. I like this one. Komak 6a+ gets a musical note (i.e. the highest quality rating) in the guide and hence was on Susy's ticklist so we made a beeline to check it out. Lowering off Komak Owen runs up Komak. That blue is unphotoshopped. Cracker of a day :) That right


Winter Is Coming...

Image from Google Here at the Ice Factor we're all starting to get psyched for the winter season again - it certainly doesn't feel like summer up here any more, with a bite in the air already and the hills starting to take on the purples and browns of Autumn. With that in mind, here's something you can enjoy with us to get you stoked too... STS Dry Tooling Competition We'll be hosting the first round of this annual competition this year. It isn't just an elite competition (although the 'great and the good' do often join ...


Quick Review Notes on the Spot 2 and Spot Connect

Summary: If you're pondering buying a Spot for tracking and emegencies I'd suggest NOT getting the Spot Connect. To do anything but send an SOS message doesn't work without a bluetooth phone, and the bluetooth pairing is sketchy even sitting at your desk at home. A spot 2 is better if you're actually outside of civilization, which is where I generally use a Spot. Bad product design. Spot needs a Spot Connect with Spot 2 physical buttons/menus. Notes: Spot beacons are a great idea. They send short satellite


LEAF Sales and Service Coordinator

Image from Google North Vancouver, BC, Canada Arc'teryx is an energetic and exceptionally innovative company, with over 400 employees. Our ongoing success stems from an uncompromising passion to continuously challenge, and radically improve, the status quo. At the foundation of our organization is a dynamic team of exceptionally talented, fun, and active people. Our modern head office is located on Vancouver's picturesque North Shore, near the Second Narrows Bridge. We promote a casual and fun work environment that supports


LEAF Sales & Service Coordinator

Image from Google North Vancouver, BC, Canada Arc'teryx is an energetic and exceptionally innovative company, with over 400 employees. Our ongoing success stems from an uncompromising passion to continuously challenge, and radically improve, the status quo. At the foundation of our organization is a dynamic team of exceptionally talented, fun, and active people. Our modern head office is located on Vancouver's picturesque North Shore, near the Second Narrows Bridge. We promote a casual and fun work environment that supports


12 Day Mountaineering Course Waiting on the Weather

Image from Google I just got off the phone with Mike Janes, lead guide of the course. It is snowing lightly on the Eldridge Glacier and not flyable at this time. There are some low clouds here in Talkeetna; however things can change quickly and there is plenty of daylight to fly. Two days ago, the students moved up glacier on their own, to the landing strip. The guides followed a few hours later. All went well and they have been learning, learning and climbing a lot. The group has requested beer, pizza and fruit....in that