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Taghia

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-03-04 I already miss this picturesque area. Taghia (Morocco), is a terrific place. Imagine a small village of 400 inhabitants at 1900m altitude surrounded by impressive but attractive faces. Taghia is like a sacred place where respect and humility are important. In Taghia, we four Frenchies were alone with the giants rock faces and teh locals. There were no other strangers. As far as I can remember, it was the first time I went to a climbing place and saw no other climbers.


Ines Papert Climbs Scottish Ciarngorms

A story by Ines Papert Photo credit: Hans Hornberger www.hans-hornberger.com During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms. After last year's baptism of fine, German alpinist Ines Papert returned to Scotland at the end of January together with Charly Fritzer from Austria where she carried out a string of important repeats, including the first repeat of "To those who wait"


Tor des Géants by Stevie Haston

Photos credit to Lorenzo Belfrong How would you like to run for 330 km? You probably wouldn’t, no sensible person would. Would you like to do 24,000 meters of ascent and decent? No definitely not, you would have to be out of your mind, right. The Tor de Geants is a race, or event, that takes in the 330km and 24,000meters of up and had 380 entrants of all ages, who thought it might be fun. Surprisingly they all seemed fairly normal to me, a bit passionate perhaps, very fit and eager, but no they weren’t


More Plice

Image from Google I'm really psyched to keep receiving photos of the Plywood Ice "Plice" that people are building around the world, really cool! I recently wrote an article for Climbing (out soon I think) about training for steep ice climbing; the gist of it the article is that climbing a lot of ice would be the best training, followed by some sort of wall (plice), followed by replicating the movements (which we can all do on the playground or with any brick wall out there) followed by weight room training. Periodization


Ines Papert Kyzyl Asker Expedition

Image from Google Ines Papert: Just a few hours too late, turned back on Mount Kyzyl Asker (Kyrgyzstan) – only 200 metres below the summit. A story by Ines Papert Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger journeyed to the southeastern region of Kyrgyzstan on September 21, 2010; to attempt a first-ascent in alpine-style on the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker, which tops out at 5,842 meters. Due to extremely nasty weather conditions, they made two attempts on the wall, only to be stopped just 200 meters below the


Quick one

Image from Google I love this time of year: Climbing, mountain biking, kayaking, running, paragliding even skiing are all right out the door, and here in Canmore we have at least 16 hours of daylight to get after it! So good. I'm finally feeling totally healthy again after having my knee drained (bursitis left over from the winter), so it's been a recreation festival around here in the sumer solstice sun, yeah! It's also been a time of a lot of work, including trying to understand the Lama/Patagonia trip. I've now spoken or


Photos that make my eyes water: Red Rock, March 2009

I guess this is an unexpected trip report Part Two ( click here for Part One with more details ), thanks to KT (aka, K-dizzle) who just posted her pictures from the trip on Facebook. She shot some of them, Shawn shot others... so sorry I can't provide detailed photo credits. But, I think once you start scrolling down, you won't care about photo credits since your eyes will be watering over just how beautiful this place is. Mine are, and, over how lucky I am to get to spend some time there once in awhile...


Guide to Bouldering in Fontainebleau, France

photo credit: ~ Phil Moore UKClimbing.com offers up a comprehensive guide to bouldering at Fontainebleau, France complete with how to train, the local rating system, when to go, and where to stay. It has been used as a bouldering area since the 1870s and has almost continuously remained at the centre of the world bouldering scene [...]


Quick Sends - 3/2/09

photo credit: Susanica Nalle Hukkataival has been sending many hard Hueco boulder problems including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s Full Monty (V12). ClimbingNarc has a good summary of the sends this season at Hueco. There appears to be access issues at the sport climbing hotbed of Margalef, Spain. The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) was repeated by [...]