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Friends, places, actions... and smiles. Always.

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-10-19 I haven't written since a very long time on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life. But nothing super exciting. Hum... I should not say that. All depends on what someone put behind the word "exciting". Climbing hard routes ? Then for sure I did nothing "exciting" since I was injured. Doing what I love ? Then I did a lot of "exciting" things... even injured ;) I realized the fact I was injured and I can not climb the way I would like to was not a reason for not ...


To begin again

Image from Google This has been a year of major changes. Over the summer I started a PhD at Cambridge. I pretty much said goodbye to climbing (and most of the rest of my life as well) out of a lack of spare time and facilities. Just before Christmas my former excuse partly vanished when the Kelsey Kerridge opened a newly refurbished wall. I've been slowly getting back into climbing and life in general. It has taken some time to adjust to what feels like a new life. It is nice to have something familiar back.However, the old


Golfers/Tennis elbow etc - what eccentrics do.

I’ve been asked a lot about eccentrics which are a really big part of successful rehab from tendonosis, in climbers that’s usually Golfer’s or Tennis elbow. What to they do? How do they work to heal the tendon? There are no definitive answers, in fact, right now the various teams around the western world researching such things are arguing more about this subject now than they were a few years ago. Here is a little discourse on where things are right now. The protocol of eccentric wrist curls was ...


Diagnosis, sort of

Today I got up, drove a few hundred miles, saw the physio, then the doctor, dowloaded about 20 research papers and read various relevant chapters from the textbook tower. Stuff it. After the diagnosis I’m breaking open the Christmas biscuit tin from Marks and Spencers and necking a few cups of tea before I head into the wall for training. As suspected over the last three weeks it seems likely I have annoyed/torn the aponeurosis of my external oblique. In other words a ‘sportsman’s hernia’. Damnit.


Back walking after elbow injury

Image from Google Posted By Sam Beaugey the 2010-11-15 For another 3 month of rest because of elbow broken on a bad landing, physio told me to put some ice on my elbow again and again. I did. Sam


Rehab

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2010-10-09 Photo - Matt Heason September and October are my favourite months. The air is clear and the temperatures start to drop and everything looks a little more beautiful. And friction goes up and all those little holds feel so much better. But little holds are still feeling pretty bad. Three months in to a projected six month recovery from a finger ligament rip I still feel pain even looking at a Ravenstor crimp! So best plan is to run away. France in late September is ...


The dreams ahead

Image from Google Yeah! Even though I'm sitting typing this with a swollen knee that has kept me up most of the night, it's a big relief to have had my knee finally operated on. A further relief (as illustrated in the surgeons pics above) is that there was no arthritis and it was a simple meniscus cartilage tear. Obviously the recuperation required after operating is a big knock-down in terms of fitness but at least I can now get stuck into the process of building back up towards my climbing dreams. Talking of which, like


We can rebuild...

Apologies for the gap in blogging. There are a variety of reasons but the main thing is my left knee, which blew up in April and I've been able to do nothing climbing-wise since. After a 10 week wait I finally got it medically examined and the surgeon has booked me in for surgery within a week. It's looking like a tear in the meniscus cartilage something I had surgery on 11 years ago. The good news is that, that time I recovered within 6 weeks to travel out to Alaska on my first trip there and climb an ...


Write Off

Rehab began in earnest yesterday with my first visit to Physio and I've got a bit more damage than first expected. It looks very likely that I'll have to write off any winter climbing plans for this season which is gut wrenching but after speaking to the Physios and doctors it seems I really am lucky to only have the injuries I do. Tools of rehabilitation


One Step Forward – Ten Steps Back

Just when I thought I was making progress, I had rather a big setback with regards to my shoulder injury. All was fine until last week when I decided to walk home from work and carry my laptop for 2.5 miles in a backpack – owch. It still hasn’t recovered and I’m back to having daily pain. I don’t know if the new physio exercises are exacerbating it as well; they’re quite tough. I’m off to see the physio this Friday for his take on this. I don’t know what I was thinking. Three medical ...