from Mountains and Water
I should begin my review of this important new book by reminding readers that Eric Hörst has been one of the relatively unsung yet valuable presences in American rock-climbing for the past three decades. I first remember encountering him in photos and articles about the New River Gorge, where he really helped push forward the American sport-climbing revolution. At the same time, he was developing an extensive knowledge about the theory and practice of training for climbing and as far as I can tell remains
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Online Climbing Coach
Remember that being a successful athlete, not matter which arena you compare yourself in (peers, amateur, professional) by definition means doing what other people wouldn’t. Lots of people model their technique, training and tactics on what their peers are doing. But if you want to get better than them, they are exactly the wrong people to look at. The modelling can be conscious and deliberate, but most of the time you actually do it subconsciously. So wake up! The greatest success you can hope for by
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from Online Climbing Coach
NB: This article used to live in the articles section of my old site. I’ve reposted it here since it was really popular. Note that it’s nearly ten years old now! Background Sport climbing is the branch of rock climbing involving routes protected by pre-placed anchor bolts. The explosion in popularity of sport climbing and organised competitions have prompted a significant rise in participation and standards in recent decades. The focus of this new discipline is the athletic and competitive aspects of
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from Online Climbing Coach
Whenever I post on this blog about the nitty gritty of strength or endurance training regimens, many comments come back looking for a more detailed explanation. From my last post, in the comments we got into talking about training anaerobic endurance and effects of training generally on different muscle fibres. This is where things get tricky because muscles and complex structures, and the adaptations they make to training are also fairly complex. Picking over the surface of some details and using this to
published: over 2 years ago
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from Mountains and Water
Andrew Bisharat, an editor at Rock and Ice , recently sent me a copy of his new book published by The Mountaineers . I promised I would take a good look at it, not least because I am an admirer of his straightforward writing for R&I but also because in an interview with Splitter Choss , he described his view that difficulty is very much a matter of perception. In that interview, he said, "However, I honestly believe that it is realistic for an average person to do 5.13+ or 5.14." This is a great attitude
published: over 2 years ago
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from gravsports
Thanks to everyone who wrote me an email about my reading list for mental training. Really cool to hear from so many people. I started responding to each individual email, and it just got to be too much 'cause I was writing and writing. So I just turned it all into a blog post, here it is. It's unfortunately a little scattered, but if you've been reading this blog then you're a pro and can wade through it. Mental training books are always full of contradictions--and often annoying. But maybe, just maybe,
published: over 2 years ago
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