from The Alpinist - newswire
Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In the last weeks of winter, Grant Meekins and Raphael Slawinski put up a bolt-free ice and mixed line at Storm Creek in the Canadian Rockies. The Peach (WI5 M8, 110m) climbs an overhanging scoop of yellow limestone below an "imposing" dagger of ice hanging from the top of the wall. The duo established the climb ground-up in four short pitches. Slawinski first came across the climb in spring of 2008, and bailed from the third pitch on his first attempt. "We retreated from below a radically overhanging ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Climber's Blog
(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Torugart-too) Mur Samir (5,035m), northeast ridge; Pik Karyshkyr (4,836m), Ten Pin; False Pik (4,801m), west face. By Adam Russell, UK The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciated peaks rising to 5,000m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. There have been few expeditions, but the highest peak, Mustyr (5,108m), [...]
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from James Pearson
Today was a day that I will never forget. A few hours ago James and I stood on the summit of the Wine Bottle, one of the coolest towers I’ve ever climbed. The summit was tiny, about the size of two dinner tables, but what made it especially sweet was how deep we had to dig to get up there. Two days ago we were randomly questing across the desert, trying to find our next objective. It was actually kind of hard, not because we couldn’t find anything, but rather because there was so much to choose from.
published: about 1 year ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Adventure travel company Intrepid Travel is running a contest throughout the month of November during which they'll be giving away one trip a day. The Win30 Trips in 30 Days contest couldn't be easier to enter either. All you have to do is roll your mouse over the onscreen map, stopping on the various push pins, along the way. When you do stop, a small postcard will pop up, indicating the destination depicted by the pin. Find the place you would most like to visit and click on it, and you'll be given the
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
The Tehipite Sanction by Rob Pizem Tehipite dome lies in the northern portion of Kings Canyon National Park, about a mile away from the Sierra National Forest boundary. But that is not where this story begins. I had planned on a summer adventure in Alaska where my partners and I would have to trek through the bush, cross icy rivers, navigate unknown glaciers, and finally end up at an enormous unclimbed big wall. We would make base camp and establish an amazing new free route on the virgin stone. ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Bruce Miller and I spent nine days on Longs Peak between July 27 and August 26 establishing a new free route (not yet named) up the center of the Diamond. We climbed the first four pitches of the Enos Mills Wall (V 5.11 A3), already freed at 5.10, with a short new leftward traverse to a stance. We then added a new 45-foot face traverse pitch that climbs leftward into a prominent right-facing corner on Jack of Diamonds (V 5.10c A4). We added two bolts and one pin on this 5.11+ traverse. The route overhangs
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
The following is my best understanding of what actually happened on the Lama trip, and then some analysis. Anyone who wants the story so far can read this or lots of other commentary out there. Most of this writing is wrong to some degrees, including my initial post . I've spent hours emailing and on the phone with everyone involved that I could contact: David Lama, Red Bull, the guides on the trip, the film makers, Rolo, and many others. I have yet to reach anyone who was on the cleanup crew despite ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On June 30, Alex Honnold and Sean Leary embarked on a speed-climbing binge on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. The pair sprinted up The Nose (VI 5.9 C2 or 5.14a, 2,900'), Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13b/c, 2,900') and Lurking Fear (VI 5.7 C2F or 5.13c, 2,000'), topping out their final climb at 7:30 p.m. on July 1 after 23 hours of continuous climbing. In total, the pair climbed about 85 pitches and 8,200 vertical feet. Armed with a rope and standard double rack, Honnold and Leary began the overnight
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Prolific climber Alex Honnold broke several Yosemite Valley speed records on Wednesday, June 22, with his one-day solo enchainment of two Grade VI routes, first The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12a, 23 pitches) and then The Nose of El Capitan (5.9 C1, 31 pitches). No stranger to high commitment solos, Honnold made headlines with his one-day free solo link-up of Astroman (IV 5.11c, 10 pitches) and The Rostrum (IV 5.11c, 8 pitches) in 2007. Then on April 1, 2008 he free soloed Moonlight Buttress (V
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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