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L'eau rance d'Arabie - Blaitiere - Mont Blanc

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-06-28 My elbow has been painful since almost two months now due to a tendinitis. Physiotherapy, ice and stretching have been very helpful lately. Climbing gently feels better that resting completely as if my elbow needs to move and stay "alive" to recover. For those reasons, multipitch route on easy grades in the Mont Blanc massif is perfect for moment. Last week, on a pouring day in Chamonix, I met Marion at the gym. I knew her by name but never got the chance to share ...


Major New Climbing Film

This year's major film project is about to commence. We are shortly heading to the island of Hoy with Dave Macleod and Andy Turner to film an ambitious ascent of the Long Hope Route on St John's Head. The Long Hope Route, Pic Dave MacLeod, Click to enlarge But first, a bit of history. The Long Hope Route was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill. They spent 7 days on the wall, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks, and several of the 23 pitches involved some aiding. A first free ascent was made


Day off and a new crag explored

Image from Google Today brought us good sunny weather with a light wind so Caff and I headed up to Diffwys Ddu (Cyrn Las Grey Horn) in Llanberis Pass. I had not been up here before so it was good to get up here while it is dry. Caff had only a couple of routes to do before he had done all the routes on this crag. We started up on The Grooves (E1 5b) and we finished on The Undercut (E5 6b), a route which hasnt had a second ascent. The route had plenty of pegs which are all in great condition with some great pumpy climbing.


Winter Roundup: Routes Worth the Wait

Numerous significant winter routes have been established since our last winter roundup in the February 24, 2010 NewsWire . Many were longstanding projects, long overdue. On February 21, Simon Frost and Dave Garry established Erazerhead (VIII 8) on Clogwyn Du in North Wales, a direct route on cliff center that had seen numerous attempts. Frost had long been eyeing the climb and was ecstatic to find the crag steeped in perfect winter conditions. The team pushed up the groove, through a difficult-to-protect


The Key

Image from Google Packing for the wall. Photo by Tom Evans. Hauling the bags up to the top of pitch 5, on our way to getting them up to pitch 8. This route is BLANK. There are 2 ledges on the entire route. TWO. One on top of pitch 5 and one on top of pitch 17. Otherwise, it's totally sheer. Thank god for our portaledge!! Tomorrow we are headed up for the next 4 days to explore the last 4 unclimbed pitches on the route. Tommy has aided through this section before, but its never seen a free climb attempt. We are expecting ...