from The Alpinist - newswire
On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress (5.10R/X, 270m) marks the first recorded ascent of the Horns' north tower, and Batu Naga (5.12R 300m) climbs "one of the proudest looking lines on the entire formation" up a prominent buttress on the south tower. Wright heard about the formation from Scotty Nelson, who did the first ascent of the south tower in 1999 and ...
published: 5 months ago
|
downloaded: 5 months ago
|
57 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Proposed Changes to Climbing Regulations in the Black Canyon The management of the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO, is being reevaluated. Since 2004 climbing in the park has been regulated under the Interim Climbing Management Plan, a temporary set of policies that governed the park's activities until an environmental assessment was completed. Upon completion of the environmental assessment, the National Park Service has revised the management policies for the entire park, to ...
published: 7 months ago
|
downloaded: 7 months ago
|
32 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
|
downloaded: 10 months ago
|
78 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
A story by Ines Papert (Tessin, Valle Bavona) redpoint/clean 8a/8a+ "Super Cirill is one of the most beautiful routes I have ever climbed" 200m, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 8a/8a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+ Graded 8a/8a+ the 9 pitch route Super Cirill on Parete di Sonlerto is the hardest free climbing multi pitch route in Tessin. Many cracks interrupted by dihedrals and exposed traverses provide for a technically challenging climbing experience. Impressions by Ines Papert Retrospect The double crack, hard as bone and just
published: 11 months ago
|
downloaded: 11 months ago
|
82 views
from James Pearson
Believe it or not, I have never climbed at Pembroke! With hundreds of 3* routes, loads and loads of amazing e6’s and 7’s next to one another, usually with good pro and good holds, Pembroke is without doubt one of the best trad climbing areas in England, if not the World. However, there is one small problem, at least it was a problem for me in the past... ...because of all the good holds and good gear, the routes here tend to be quite pumpy for the given grades! Trad climbing for sports climbers – if
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
143 views
from James Pearson
Things are going well, which as I type this brings a smile to my face, and for a brief moment I even considered marking the occasion with an elegant and refined self-portrait. I'm sure you know the sort - tops off, slap on the baby oil, flip the mood lighting and stare moodily into the distance – but unfortunately, I can’t find my favourite pair of aviators, and you know as well as I do that a portrait without aviators is no portrait at all. The reason for this blog is that the day I depart these snowy
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
92 views
from gravsports
Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo . One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I'm
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
102 views
from gravsports
On Saturday EJ and I returned from Helmcken Falls. Tim Emmett had to head out a day early due to slideshow obligations in the UK, but we all had at the climbing there for another few days. The stoke level is high! Tim wrapped in from the lip of the falls to see if the "ice" on the headwall was climbable. This year it isn't, mostly snow, but I've seen photos from years where it is. EJ and I bolted sideways for another 30 feet on the headwall before the spray pattern changed, and we had to bail before ...
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
60 views
from Mountains and Water
The most recent controversy to emerge is David Lama's return to Cerro Torre. Having already run into a hornet's nest of controversy regarding the placement of bolts and leaving equipment on the mountain, Lama still wants (needs?) to finish his free ascent of the Compressor Route. Having pledged to avoid the excesses of the first trip, he has now announced that if necessary he will get to the summit and rappel down to place any needed gear. This is according to Colin Haley's excellent blog post on the ...
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
62 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
From The Access Fund: "National Park Service Releases New Wilderness Policy on Climbing Fixed Anchors After years of anticipation and direct advocacy by the Access Fund, the National Park Service has released an updated draft of its wilderness management policies in order to provide accountability, consistency, and continuity in its wilderness stewardship program. The update covers a wide range of topics including the long-waited-for provisions specific to climbing fixed anchors. Iconic climbing areas in
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
105 views
