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Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 8 (Arhi, SG and the GG)

Keywords:
Bo, Arhi, DNA, DNA 7a, Susy, SG, TICKAGE, Andy, Owen, Komak

ARHI For our dose of vitamin D on day three we headed to Arhi. The left-side was in the sun at 9:30am when we arrived but temps were low, and the group punched out some long slabs up to 40m (!!) in length which required lowering off in two stages. I like this one. Komak 6a+ gets a musical note (i.e. the highest quality rating) in the guide and hence was on Susy's ticklist so we made a beeline to check it out. Lowering off Komak Owen runs up Komak. That blue is unphotoshopped. Cracker of a day :) That right


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 3 (Odyssey and Symplegades)

Alright. After the team's first couple of days a rest day was in order. So we piled into the Upskill limousine and began our Kalymnos mega tour. The main port town Pothia, the impressive church and monastery of Saint Savaas, and the scenic township of Vathy were all ticked. In order to work up an appetite, we decided some swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping was in order... The water was just as good as it looks here. I've got a mighty spring going in this photo. At our restaurant at Vathy which is an


3rd Ascent Of Jaws II (5.15a) By Mike Foley

Image from Google Mike Foley nabs the 3rd ascent of the Rumney, NH testpiece Jaws II (5.15a) 3rd Ascent Of Jaws II (5.15a) By Mike Foley from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Jaws II (5.15a) Repeated By Daniel Woods Climbing Video: Mike Foley Sending Livin Astroglide (5.14c) In Rumney 3rd Ascent Of Practice Of The Wild (V15) Ill Trill By Daniel Woods UPDATED Jaws II 3rd Ascent Of Terremer (V15) By Daniel Woods Ondra Gets Revenge At Malham Cove, Does 2nd Ascent Of Overshadow ...


The Other Side of the Mountain

Image from Google I have been very busy working on the book this past week but have squeezed a few visits in at Area A, Mount Evans. The snow has been piling up in RMNP all spring and although a few have ventured up that way, the action has clearly been at Lincoln Lake. The earlier (re)discovery of Endo Valley had primed the pump (in a manner of speaking) and the news coming from Wolvo/LL has been mostly fast repeats of last year's new problem testpieces along with the usual downgrades. Cool stuff to be sure and I look ...


Get your Pump On

Image from Google Well after work I headed up to Bus Stop Quarry, with an eye for Geordie Warcry, hoping for the sun to have dried it out. Unfortunately whilst the hard climbing was dry the bottom was being rained on. The clip Continue reading


Point Blank

Image from Google Keith had previously revelled about his experience on an E5 called “Out of my Mind”, that last year he had tried and backed off from after getting out of his mind with fear and pump. The tide was in, “Ghost Train” looked even wetter than before, and so warm up routes were in short supply – time to get a little out there... The first challenge of the day was to access the belay stance, involving a timed dash across a wave washed platform. At times the waves were mellow, barely covering your feet,


Ice Climbing is NOT rock climbing.

Image from Google Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo . One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I'm


Mental Tricks

Image from Google Ice climbing is far more mental than rock climbing, and I mean that both in the sense of, "It's mental mate!" and that ice climbing puts more of a load on the brain. This does not mean ice climbers are smarter than rock climbers obviously... Here are a few brief tricks I've found useful for leading ice. Be a better climber on toprope than you'll ever have to be on lead. If you can hike any piece of vertical water ice on the planet on a toprope then you're not going to be losing it too much leading a ...


Kum & Go Plays Bait & Switch

So I am back on the road, headed south to warmer weather(I hope!). I'll do another updating post soon, but need to vent. I HATE unethical business practices, and if you agree that this is the case upon reading this post, I hope you will help me go on a boycotting tirade against Kum & Go gas stations. The title on this blog post links directly to Kum & Go's Contact Form(as does this link . Send them a note telling them how you feel about such tactics. And do please link this post up and down the internet


Tactics: Climbing in the cold

On my main blog I just added the video above about a new 8b I did in Glen Nevis. It was climbed in temperatures of Minus 2 or 3 with a light breeze. I thought it would be a good idea to write a post about working around the cold for doing redpoints like this. The tactics are fairly simple: 1 Start off very warm. Make sure you wear enough clothing so you arrive at the crag at the point of overheating. This way, by the time you’ve faffed and put your gear on, you’ll be at the right temperature to start