from Arc'teryx Latest News
October 2011 Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011 After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the "Red Soldier", the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker , in late fall of 2010, I knew I'd go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far. I would
published: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
American climbers John Frieh, Zac West and Davie Burdick claimed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8500-foot tower west of Mount Burkett on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. The expedition was funded by the Copp Dash Inspire Award and the Mazamas Climbing Club. The trio's new route, Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 AI3 M5), is the sixth ascent of the peak. The Burkett Needle was first climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and Dan Davis on the north buttress. The mountain was not summited for a
published: 7 months ago
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from gravsports
First off, sorry for the long delay in blogging. I've been stupid busy with everything from getting my first guiding exam done, family, writing, doing a couple of TV shows and of course climbing, mountain biking (broke some ribs, healing now), travel, and just life. Enough excuses, I'm back, thanks for the heckling/encouraging emails. I'm going to do a new section of this blog where I answer questions from readers, starting with these: 1) There has be a lot of discussion on knots for tying ropes to rappel.
published: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
At the 2011 Piolets d'Or, members of the jury asked Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand if they would recommend their route The Rose of No Man's Land , on Mt. Edgar's east face (6618m), to other climbers. Their answer was. "No." They explained that the only approach to the face is a terrain trap. This face is where, in 2009 , Johnny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson were killed in an avalanche. But Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto and Takaaki Nagato felt that more routes on Edgar's east face
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from The Alpinist - newswire
First attempted in 1944, Cerro Chimbote (5493m) has stood as one of the highest and most technical unclimbed peaks in the range, and has gained an almost legendary status after turning away multiple teams of Chile's top climbers. At 6 p.m. on April 1 Fernando Fainberg and Waldo Farias, who has been pursuing the first ascent since 1985, celebrated on the summit of Chimbote. Located in the Central Andes and straddling the border of Argentina and Chile, Cerro Chimbote is easily recognized by its three ...
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from Kevin Jorgeson
It is a well known fact that the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA are known for their highballs. It only takes one visit, or one glance at a photograph, to realize how big the granite boulders are and how unique the geology is. However, had it not been for the events of the mid to late 1980's, and a climb called Transporter Room, the Buttermilks may be known for the country's shortest sport climbs instead. From the history update to the latest edition of the Bishop Bouldering guidebook, Wills Young describes the
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Recently, a six-day weather window afforded a gathering of climbers in Patagonia the chance to tackle numerous objectives in the Fitz Roy, Pollone and Cerro Torre Massifs. Between February 7 and 13, teams put up a variety of first ascents, FFAs, significant attempts and variations. "Apparently the weather would stay good for several more days, which had compelled some folks to wait and plan bigger objectives, and others to try and to cram back-to-back climbs," climber Blake Herrington wrote in his blog. On
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Patrick Pessi's obsession with the north face of Les Droits on the Mont Blanc massif has culminated in the first ascent of Ecaille epique (M5/M6 A1 80 degrees/90 degrees, 1000m). As an adolescent, Pessi memorized the mountain's lines and angles from a poster in his bedroom and eventually grew up to climb the mountain's classic routes. During an ascent of the Messner Pillar, he spotted an unclimbed line that seemed to have potential. After keeping the potential line secret for fifteen years, Pessi made an
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