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Tour 2011: Contador Throws Down The Gauntlet, Evans Takes The Challenge

Image from Google It is becoming increasingly clear that in the 2011 Tour de France you should expect the unexpected. Case in point was today's 162.5km (101 mile) stage between Saint-Paul-Trois-Chateaux and Gap which was expected to be a great opportunity for a breakaway, but not have much of an impact on the GC itself. Those expectations were both right and wrong in so many ways, and with the rain, and sometimes snow, steadily falling throughout the day, the riders once again put on a show. As predicted, there was indeed a


An introduction to outdoor bouldering

Image from Google So you’ve been indoor bouldering for a little while and are getting pretty good, your moving pretty well on the problems. You might even be starting to push your grade a little. What’s next? The next logical step is to voyage onto some real problems outside, on real rock – where there are no colored [...] An introduction to outdoor bouldering is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also lik: ...


The Finals: ABS Nationals Boulder Colorado

I decided last minute to attend the ABS Nationals and was very glad I did. I picked up a media pass on Friday and nabbed a ticket for my wife (thanks to AIM Media), and we were at the venue off east Pearl at 7:45, 4-year old in tow. The USA climbing staff were super helpful setting me up with a pass at the last minute and giving good photo access throughout the venue. I had followed the semi-finals earlier in the day on the web where there had been a certain amount of concern regarding a scoring system ...


Study Finds That Altitude Sickness Common on Kilimanjaro

According to t he BBC , a new study found that nearly half of the climbers on Kilimanjaro suffered from altitude sickness, demonstrating just how dangerous a trek up the highest mountain in Africa can be. Traffic on the peak has increased in recent months thanks to a few high profile celebrity climbs, which has led to even more travelers on Kili's trails, many of which are unprepared for the challenge. Researchers camped at 4730m (15,518 feet) on the mountain for three weeks, while conducting studies of


Looking up the Nose of El Cap

On pitch 3 looking up the wall makes it look pretty easy, but there’s a real problem with perspective here. For those unfamiliar, the line follows a crack system up to the small triangular roof - close up below. Finally looking down from near the top, I still think it’s not as big as I thought. At 5.8 C2, it’s technically possible for me one day, with the biggest hurdle for me being getting there for the right conditions. Original images from ukclimbing.com .


Canada Crossfit Regionals

I spent the weekend cheering/coaching my wife, Kim Csizmazia, and all the other athltes at the Canada Crossfit Regional Games, which are a sort of athletic torture festival. Athletes at the Regionals have already qualified through a "Sectional," and a top six result at the regionals will send them to the Games finals in California. The competition is fierce, the events nasty, and the effort level high. I wrote most of the following as notes on my phone during the event, so it's a bit rough, quick sort and


Equalization/Extension in anchors post #2

The post on anchors prompted a lot of comments (should be right below this one). Right-click (or control click for the Apple cultists) on this to download it , nicer to have the PDF than to be looking at the study in a browswer window. I spent some more time geeking out on the data last night. Here are my conclusions: 1. All of this is equalization/extension theory is primarily relevant in only three situations: A factor-two fall directly onto a belay, catching a second who somehow takes a relatively hard


Endless Analysis #2:Training

Training for dZi Endless Ascent First off, today was my first day back on the ice, two weeks to the day since we finished Endless Ascent. I'm losing one fingernail, and the soles of my feet are still bruised. No more cheap socks ever!!!!! Other than that I'm OK, and it sure was fun to mixed climb today! So how do you train to climb ice for 24 hours? That was the question I started asking myself in about June, and for once the internet was short of answers. I had a further problem in that I had some elbow


Auer Frees 400-meter 5.14a

Hansjorg Auer, whose ascent of Arctandria and free solo of The Fish Route turned heads in 2007, has now freed the most difficult route in Austria's Wetterstein mountains. Vogelfrei (Free as the Birds: 8b/8b+ [5.13d/5.14a], 14 pitches, 400m), which takes the steepest and longest direttissima on the south face of the Schusselkarspitze, was an open project for 12 years. The route was bolted and climbed in autumn of 1997 by Michi Warthl, Tom Dauer and Chris Semmel. Although the trio established much of the ...


9 out of 10 climbers is here in the next day or two...

Our stock of my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes is printed and currently being shipped to us. We've just put it up for pre-order in the shop now.W ith any luck the DHL man might be at our door with a pallet as early as tomorrow and we can start dispatching. Thanks to all of you who pre-ordered already! I know some of you are after a copy in time for Christmas and so it should be in plenty of time. We are dispatching around 11.30am every day until Christmas, worldwide. I’m very happy to