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Op Done

Image from Google On Saturday morning I eventually had surgery on my mashed ankle. The surgeon I ended up getting decided that full fusion was overkill for the time being so they removed the broken floating shards etc which means I'm looking at roughly 2 weeks in a cast and not 2 months.It also means I'll be back to climbing quicker. It means more surgery and pain in the future but that's the futures problem. Missing days out at the crag and the shared banter and risk- Pic-Dorota Bankowska In the time I've had off from ...


Dare To Dream

Image from Google After the mad rush prior to Christmas to send out all necessary mail before the festive period, Christmas and New Year were actually very good and almost relaxing with a trip to the Peak District in hurricane force winds on Christmas Day. New Year brought to a close the eventful and successful year of 2011, which included a Scottish winter , climbing in Kyrgyzstan upon Peak Lenin subsequently learning many lessons, and closing with the Baruntse and Mera Peak expedition . These were the big milestones of


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


Zee Mystery of climbing, by Stevie the sage Haston.

Image from Google In 6 weeks I haven’t really been climbing but I managed 8a+ today. How is it possible? Some years I tried fairly hard, and never made it past 8a+, what is going on? I guess I am very fit, both Cardio wise and in a muscle sense, but this seems too good to be true. For the last 10 years I have been thinking that climbing is quite complex, but in some ways you might be able to say it is simple. Or is it complex and simple, depending on you, yourself, and more importantly the link between you and your mind.


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


Coaching observations

I’m just back from various coaching sessions around the UK. After a little break from coaching over the summer, I’ve come to it with fresh eyes after digesting a lot of variety in watching and doing climbs of many different types. It’s amazing how your perspective widens. There are always some patterns to observe. Older climbers who have been going 10-20 years don’t go for the holds with nearly the same determination as the young angry lads. The young angry lads are too busy going for the (hand)


Chasing The Endless Summer

We were fortunate to chase summer south last week, spending much of it in Red Rocks, and the weekend in Indian Creek. As rock climbers we long for the good weather to last year round, but reality dictates most of us stay grounded in one spot year round.


A Humbling Monster

Image from Google Well the rumors are true, El Cap is a humbling monster.  Its big, its steep, its slick, its sharp, its hot, its cold.  Luckily, we aint here just to conquer the rock, weez here to push our context of reality, find deeper meaning in this crazy world, and drink some ice cold wobbly pops in [...]


Master bakers have opinions too, by Stevie Haston.

Image from Google I miss being in Italy, but its nice to be at home. Cats, and my climbing partner, a garden; and living without car noise! One of the great things about being home is the climbing, my favorite cliff is here, but it is upside down, and my old warm-ups are 8a. I have been there three times since coming back, and months since I went climbing, so it was a surprise to lead one of them, and so did Laurence. Wow, I can call myself a climber again, my legs were like bursting sausages and I am verry-heavyyyy! Went