from Upskill Climbing
Time is ticking by and when you hit day five of climbing and realise there's only five climbing days to go it's panic mode! Ahh, cobras! ODYSSEY You guys know all about Odyssey now. You don't need me to tell you that it is the single most varied and diverse crag at Kalymnos and hosts the biggest grade range of any sector (3s to 9s). Could this be why it draws the climbing celebrities? Recognise this guy? Yep, none other than climbing superstar Iker Pou . Rumour has it that he has been sent here on a secret
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
You thought we'd wrapped? How wrong you are! Gird your loins dear readers and prepare yourself for another gripping six-part series of Upskillery on the isle of Kalymnos. Despite imminent Grecian economic collapse, general strikes, aircraft groundings and a run-in with pirates, our first team of Upskill players managed to leave the island and make their way home. This left a void that only a group of boisterous Aussies could fill, so we imported some. Allow me to introduce the new players. Upskill Kalymnos
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
I n northern Spain Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse completed the second ascent of Orbayu (8C+/9) on Naranjo de Bulnes. Pustelnik and Favresse spent four days red-pointing the thirteen pitch route, located in Picos de Europa. The Pou brothers, Eneko and Iker, established Orbayu in September of 2009 grading it at 8c+/9a and donning it the hardest big wall free climb in the world. The route climbs the west face of the wall for over 1600 feet with five pitches in the 8 grade range. The Pou brothers had ...
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page shortly, and also on Julia's blog and Hot Aches blog . Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
The belay in sight at the end of Maxwell’s Demon 8b+, Steall during the first ascent. Pic by Steven Gordon. Steven has uploaded a nice gallery from the day on his site here. It’s not so often I get to the chain on two sport projects at Steall in one day, never mind two first ascents. Finally a break the humidity allowed me to get some redpoints in. First off, I took an interest in an old project climbing straight through the central cave, taking in the crux of Arcadia and breaking out onto the headwall
published: 9 months ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
Following on from other recent 8c ascents, Alan Cassidy bumps it up a grade with a redpoint of Metalcore (8c+) at the Anvil in Scotland.
"I'm really excited to have my name up there with Malc & Dave in the only Scots to climb the grade..."
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5/6, Mucklehouse Wall I wrote this on the way home from our trip to Orkney, having had a great time. The final days were mostly spent gathering some really cool footage for our film about the Longhope route which we’ll prepare for the autumn. Ed Drummond revisiting St John’s Head. Photo Lukasz Warzecha For the last few days we also had a nice visit from Ed Drummond who stayed with us and walked back in to St John’s head to see his route again, 41 years after his original
published: 10 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Anna enjoying Sky Pilot bouldering Spooky forest One of hundreds - no joke Straight out of Switzerland Cave of granite crimps - yesterday’s prize Progress on my project has been up and down. I got past the main crux another three times and felt like it was right there, only to fail convincingly on the next move every time. It’s well hard. And sadly, now it’s too hot. Today it was 19 degrees and it felt like I was climbing it with a rucksack on. And that’s despite feeling super fit from daily ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
There is no question that Adam Ondra sits at the very pinnacle of the disciplines of sport climbing and bouldering. His onsights of five 8c+ routes, two 5.15 FAs and ascents of 8C/V15 boulder problems in the first few months of 2011 form a record unmatched by anyone else on the planet. In the global combined rankings at 8a.nu, he is 2000 points ahead of Gabriele Moroni, the runner-up. I cannot think of anyone else in the past ten years who has so convincingly set himself apart from the pack and been so ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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