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The importance of being not normal

Following on from my last post about learning technique, another thought following my recent travels. I was speaking about risk and decision making in bold climbing at the SAFOS seminar at EICA Ratho. One of the other speakers was Mark Williams who gave an excellent lecture summarising some of the fascinating research on skill learning in sport right now. Mark talked a lot about practice, it’s importance, just how much is necessary to reach your potential (a LOT) and crucially, what good practice ...


My Rwenzori Reflections: What Really Matters...

I finally wrote up my reflections on the Rwenzori Expedition. Stop on over at the Challenge21 blog if you're interested in my take on the trip, what really matters to me in climbing, and why this was the first expedition...


“Reflections of Greenland”—NE Regional Coordinator Sarah Garlick…

Image from Google This project, created by AAC Northeast Regional Coordinator Sarah Garlick, tells the story of her 2010 expedition to southern Greenland, where she and teammates Jim Surette, Danika Gilbert, and Dave Nettle established a new route on a remote, 600-meter granite wall. Reflections of Greenland is supported in part by the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and Industry [...]


Reflections

Image from Google I'm finding it hard to finish off the writing about my flying trip from Vernon home. The basic reason is simple: A week after that trip my friend Stewart crashed his glider on Lady Mac as I watched impotently from 1,000 feet over his head. He would not likely have been there if I hadn't stated that I was going to walk up, and walked with him when he wanted to go. Stewart's now recovering, but the starting point for that recovery is a broken neck with currently serious spinal cord issues. The battle back is


Is 40 really the new 30?

Image from Google Recently I posted an article from Gripped Magazine on my Facebook Mountains and Water page . About a year earlier, Gripped ran a similar story , focusing on male climbers, but with the same angle, that older climbers can still get up hard routes. Thoughts of this sort even circulated a bit in the media after Chris Sharma's stunning ascent of two 5.15s just after turning 30. On the one hand, I want to agree with the yea-sayers who assert that age is mostly an imaginary barrier, one much more easily overcome


Everything

Image from Google Lots of changes and difficult decisions these days Is it time for some reflection? anathema everything needed time to clear my mind breathe the free air, find some peace there i used to keep my heart in jail but the choice was love or fear of pain and i chose love cause everything is [...]


Wrap Up of the Bozeman Ice Fest

Image from Google The Arc'teryx Bozeman Ice Fest is different every year, but the span of emotions from this year's festival seemed particularly representative of the sport and culture of ice climbing: in the joy of beginner climbers hefting tools for the first time and the glow of older climbers returning to Hyalite after being away; in a somber tribute to friend and mentor Guy Lacelle, who had a fatal accident in the canyon one year ago. The Bozeman Ice Fest represented a microcosm of the sport as a whole, both in its ...


Reflection on Frey and beyond!!!!

Well I have been back from Frey for a while now. The climbing is totally world class, the rock solid and great for free climbing, despite the sandbagging grades, it is a spot that I cannot recommend highly enough. Just book a flight and take a sleeping bag and a rack, and stay in the [...]


Nature and Reflections

Hi Steph, My names Emily, Im 21 and from Minnesota. I study music at concordia college in Moorhead MN, which is near Fargo ND. I got into climbing this summer as I did a lot of hiking in RMNP and climbed the North Face of Longs with Jim Detterline and a few others. I was [...]


Tactics: Anticipation

In observing climbers I’m always looking for running themes that tend to characterise successful climbers versus the unsuccessful ones. My definition of unsuccessful here is not defined by a given grade but just by failure to make continued improvement over time, almost irrespective of the type or intensity of training they do. Above a certain (fairly low) level of regular climbing time, climbers should tend to get better, just by learning better tactics. How does this happen? The core skill needed, and