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COLD WARS – Video Profile

The joy of climbing is a private thing between me and climbingOur relationship is complicated Andy Kirkpatrick The US magazine Climbing once described Andy Kirkpatrick as a climber with a “strange penchant for the long, the cold and the difficult”, with a reputation “for seeking out routes where the danger is real, and the return [...] COLD WARS Video Profile is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might


Antarctica 2011: Another Skier Airlifted Off The Ice

Image from Google Another South Pole skier had to be airlifted off the ice a few days back due to poor health. Norwegian explorer Steffen Dahl , who was attempting a speed record to the South Pole, began experiencing health issues a few days back, and as a result, he decided that discretion was the better part of valor, and thought it best to pull the plug on his expedition. Steffen first began to experience problems back on the first of December, when he took ill and was very weak. The explorer was puzzled by the problem


Antarctica 2011: Struggles Continue

Image from Google Over the weekend I was fortunate enough to spend some time in very beautiful tropical conditions. The Antarctic skiers can only dream about the warmth of the Caribbean at this point however, as many have now been out on the ice for more than a month, and while the weather has improved, it is still plenty cold and challenging at the bottom of the world. Australians Cas and Jonesy returned to the trail over the weekend after spending a few rest days in the tent. Both are nursing injuries of one sort or ...


The need to pull hard

A week of coaching abroad last week marked the end of a crazy few months of various work projects. Last week was very strange, going climbing every day and having great days but only on easy routes. I was absolutely stir crazy on the way home to pull hard on some small holds again. The need to take things to extremes seems to be a deep set part of human nature, and not just ego driven need to stand out from a crowd. Climbing at a relaxed pace without battling my way up routes to the last just doesn’t ...


About that Citibank Ad (or why I will never be in an Outside Magazine Top 10 list)

Image from Google In a previous post, I discussed my feelings about the transformation of climbing into a luxury sport, at least at a certain end of the socio-economic spectrum. I posted a Youtube Video of an ad made by Citibank that features Katie Brown and Alex Honnold. Here's the video: Given the dismal economic picture in the US right now and the fact that big American banks in particular have had a great deal to do with it, it was natural that the ad would spark a certain degree of controversy. A forum post on Mountain


British Kyashar Expedition

Nick Bullock, on his 18th expedition, returns to Nepal's Hinku Valley with Andy Houseman to attempt the unclimbed south pillar of Kyashar (6770 m).


Guess Where Swanky Will Break Down(First)? Or – A Pool to Fund Repairs

Last year, Swanky the van was brand new, to me. I bought it from a cop, and my mother(who was a nurse) once told me “Eye doctors can't see; ear doctors are deaf, and psychiatrists are crazy.” Well, I figure that line of thinking probably goes beyond the boundaries of the medical field, if you know what I mean. Now I know there are plenty of optometrists with 20/20 vision, just like most police are law-abiding citizens, but if the lies this guy told me about that van weren't a crime, I don't know what


Adventure Time part 2

Image from Google Part 2 of my 'adventure break' was something of mixed success or rather a mixed disaster. Things started well with a return to Ladram Bay with Jon and a mighty new route on the Lost World stack. Realistically it's probably not the best route in the world. In fact it's probably the second worst. It did have a nice finishing mud arete though And some entertaining gear - this is part of the belay - there was no crack before I placed the warthog. How we laughed... Then after a very long drive we arrived at ...


Slovenians Kyrgyzstan

Image from Google S lovenian climbers made the first ascent of a major summit in the Western Kokshaal-too of Kyrgyzstan this season. Pik Byeliy (5697m) was the highest unclimbed peak in the Western Kokshaal-too and has been the objective of many expeditions to the area over the past decade. The Western Kokshaal-too forms part of the Tien Shan range along the border of China and Kyrgyzstan. Americans Jerry Dodrill, Mike Libecki, Doug and Jed Workman made the first major attempt at Peak Byeliy in 2000 from the southwest ridge


Return of the Yak: A Mongol Rally Documentary

I've written about the Mongol Rally numerous times on this blog. It's the annual road rally that begins in London, and various other European cities, and covers 10,000+ miles, before ending in Ulaanbaatar, the capitol of Mongolia. Along the way, the teams cross vast deserts, snowcapped mountain ranges, and miles of lonely road. One of the teams involved in the 2011 edition of the race blogged their experience at ReturnOfTheYak.com , and is now in the process of making a documentary of their travels. You'll