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Op Done

Image from Google On Saturday morning I eventually had surgery on my mashed ankle. The surgeon I ended up getting decided that full fusion was overkill for the time being so they removed the broken floating shards etc which means I'm looking at roughly 2 weeks in a cast and not 2 months.It also means I'll be back to climbing quicker. It means more surgery and pain in the future but that's the futures problem. Missing days out at the crag and the shared banter and risk- Pic-Dorota Bankowska In the time I've had off from ...


NY Mets Pitcher To Climb Kilimanjaro Against Team's Wishes

Image from Google R.A. Dickey , a pitcher for the New York Mets baseball team, will set off tomorrow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa, despite the wishes of the ball club. Dickey will be making the climb as part of a fundraiser for Bombay Teen Challenge , organization dedicated to rescuing and saving young sex slaves that are put to work in brothels in India. He will be joined on the trek byDave Racaniello, abullpen catcher for the Mets,and Colorado Rockies pitcher Kevin Slowey, who is a former teammate. When the Mets got


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Hold breaking at the Orme

Image from Google Today the weather wasn't great but Luke and I grabbed our harnesses, shoes and rope and headed down to the Great Orme . On arrival it was very cold and damp so we didn't risk going into the diamond which was our primary aim. Its a little bit of a risk if its a bit wet as it has a interesting approach which is great fun but wastes some time if the conditions arnt great. Instead we opted for climbing right next to the road. It was great Luke parked right below the climb..... Well it was great till a large


The importance of being not normal

Following on from my last post about learning technique, another thought following my recent travels. I was speaking about risk and decision making in bold climbing at the SAFOS seminar at EICA Ratho. One of the other speakers was Mark Williams who gave an excellent lecture summarising some of the fascinating research on skill learning in sport right now. Mark talked a lot about practice, it’s importance, just how much is necessary to reach your potential (a LOT) and crucially, what good practice ...


Handa - More dangling above drops for the BBC

The Great Stack of Handa. Photo: Triple Echo Productions Last month I was working on two great film shoots with the Triple Echo team for the BBC at either ends of the UK. First off it was up north to the Stack of Handa to play the part of Donald McDonald, a Lewis farmer from the 1870s. The reason we ended up here was down to two accounts in the SMC journal by WH Murray and Tom Patey. Handa is a small island off the far north west coast of Scotland near Scourie. It’s a fairly remote and barren place, ...


Friends, places, actions... and smiles. Always.

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-10-19 I haven't written since a very long time on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life. But nothing super exciting. Hum... I should not say that. All depends on what someone put behind the word "exciting". Climbing hard routes ? Then for sure I did nothing "exciting" since I was injured. Doing what I love ? Then I did a lot of "exciting" things... even injured ;) I realized the fact I was injured and I can not climb the way I would like to was not a reason for not ...


Shark's Fin Full Report

Image from Google American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days


The New York Times Looks At Speed Climbing

Image from Google The New York Times has posted a story and video on speed climbing in the world of mountaineering and takes a look at the approach to climbing, which inherently brings some risks for those who choose to go faster in the mountains. The article mentions or quotes a number of big name climbers, including Steve House, who has a few harsh things to say about the approach, saying that speed records are for stroking someone's "ego." The Times also interviews Chad Kellogg about his attempts at a speed record on ...


The Foundation of Modern Climbing: The 50th Anniversary of John Gill Ascent of theThimble

This year a remarkable anniversary in the sport of climbing has gone virtually unnoticed. I was particularly reminded of it when I sat down to talk with John Gill yesterday in Pueblo at a local coffee place. In the spring of 1961, over fifty years ago, according to an interview in the first edition of Master of Rock, John Gill did the first ascent of the Thimble Overhang, a 30-foot problem/route that became legendary in the history of world climbing. Climbed onsight solo over a very serious landing, it was