from The Alpinist - newswire
Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour push from the Norwegos hut. Cerro Standhardt is named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt, who documented Patagonia's mountains and people in the first half of the twentieth century. In 1977, after several attempts, British duo Brian Hall and John Whittle climbed to the base of the snow mushroom via the
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Scottish Tooling Series
The 2011 Scottish Tooling Series rules have been updated. I have highlighted the main changes below: The full rules can be viewed here: 1. Rock Boots Following much discussion we have decided to allow rock shoes to be used while also allowing use of Outdoor boots (big boots) and fruit boots the choice is [...]
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Climber's Blog
The local boy is at it again! Northwest native Colin Haley is back in Chamonix for a triple: Skis on his feet, crampons on his feet and rock shoes on his feet - all in the same day.Colin Haley in Chamonix from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.Have a great week...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
The Black Canyon near Gunnison, CO is still a largely untapped big wall resource. Known for its difficult approaches, suspect rock and poorly protected routes, it is a destination that attracts the experienced and bold. The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+) on the North Chasm View Wall of the canyon has stood as a big wall classic since its first ascent by Bryan Becker in 1980. Becker graded it A5 and spent seventeen days working on the route. Since that first ascent, the wall has seen a fair number of repeats,
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
During unusually favorable winter conditions in the Julian Alps, two Slovenian climbers established a direct variation up the north face of Triglav (2864m). Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnc spent 33 hours linking together parts of three summer routes to form their direct line. The new route is named Sanjski Joza (VI/V, M7+, 1050m) or "Dream Joza" in honor of Joza Cop who first climbed its upper section in the summer of 1945. The first two sections of the new line include portions of Sakalaska (summer V+)
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In late December, as the weather cleared over Argentinean Patagonia, three Washington-based climbers teamed up for a new route on the east face of Aguja Mermoz. In a 26-hour push Mike Schaefer, Jens Holsten and Colin Haley climbed Jardines Japoneses (5.10 A1 AI4 M5, 650m) on December 26th. The route follows an ice and mixed gully into a complicated crack system, and then joins the Argentinean route for several pitches of excellent granite to the summit. Schaefer attempted the line in 2009, but was ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Kev Shields Climbing
Here are some pics from the 3rd attempt at Tolerance . All pics by Suzy Devey............................... Dot and I chatting and getting a brew between snow showers Trying to melt ice with my palm while trying to regain a smidgen of feeling in my left hand, a battle I rapidly lost!! Trying again to get a bit of sensitivity in my hand before launching into trying the hard moves!! That's solid ice on the sole of my rock shoes, not ideal....................
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Izzi and I headed up to Raven Crag in Borrowdale and climbed Corvus (Diff). It was a cold damp day so we left the rock shoes in the car and climbed in our boots. Izzi was up for more leading so she led 3 pitches and I led the other 5 pitches. The best pitch was the hand traverse which was quite tricky in big boots but had great gear all the way across. A good 3 star route but a bit slimy in the wet.
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Kev Shields Climbing
It's been a busy few days here. The prospect of getting an operation on my ankle next year that could lay me out for 6 months has really got me motivated to train and climb as much and as hard as possible, well I think it's the thought of that and probably the good circle of people I have around me at the moment. So Last Wednesday it was up the Glen with Dot and Suzy for a look at a few routes and a bit of top roping on Cubbys routes at Upper Scimitar where Dot surprised herself by cleanly climbing Jahu
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
There's a lot of information on the web and in print about how to get stronger for rock climbing, but very little on how to actually get better at climbing. Those two aren't the same thing. Being stronger will help, but really you need to climb a lot to get better at climbing. Anybody promising that doing any form of non-climbing training will make you a better (better means climbing harder) climber is flat-out missing the point. I really mean that: If you want to climb better then climb, and structure the
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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58 views
