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Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Yoga climbing, by Stevie novice Haston.

Image from Google The Yoga breathing is working for the climbing, but its not working so well for my swimming, phooee! The problem with my climbing now is that I am relatively weak. The Yoga has worked because it has maximised my potential at this level of strength, but I cant do any better. In fact I think I am really lucky to have squeezed out my last few ascents. So in truth it’s back to some basic training because I lack the ability to do a long sustained sequence, or a hard powerful pull, or two. In my underwater ...


Adam Ondra's training regime

Here's a collection of training tidbits from the world's best climber. Adam Ondra's training regime "I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20


Chinese Trifecta on Home Ground

T he Chinese team of Yan DongDong and Zhou Peng established three new routes in the Minya Konka Range of China's Sichuan Province. The pair climbed the north face of Reddomain (6112m), the west face of Jiazi (6540m) and, accompanied by filmmaker Li Shuang, the south face of Xiao Gongga (5928m). While Chinese mountaineering has traditionally been dominated by large, siege-style expeditions involving either commercial or governmental entities, this recent expedition breaks from that past. Yan and Zhou ...


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


December 8, 2011

Image from Google A Serious Rappelling Accident Last week Frank Sarat, an experienced climber and Potrero veteran, in a moment of lapsed concentration rappelled off the end of his rope, falling about 20 feet to the ground and suffering some serious injuries.    We had been cleaning a section of wall, two pitches up,  in preparation for bolting [...]


The Grandes Jorasses

The most renowned north face of the Alps is the Grandes Jorasses. The route is exciting: climbing Desmaison with one bivouac at the start and one at mid height. Since early fall, my sights were set on its summit. Jonathan Griffith, a photographer and friend, suggested we try the Grandes Jorasses with Andy Houseman, an English climber, and use the opportunity to get some interesting pictures of the route. Good idea! Sadly, our start was poor. Andy arrived from England and I was coming from Nice; no time to


GRANDES JORASSES Le Linceul

The most renowned north face of the Alps is the Grandes Jorasses. The route is exciting: climbing Desmaison with one bivouac at the start and one at mid height. Since early fall, my sights were set on its summit. Jonathan Griffith, a photographer and friend, suggested we try the Grandes Jorasses with Andy Houseman, an English climber, and use the opportunity to get some interesting pictures of the route. Good idea! Sadly, our start was poor. Andy arrived from England and I was coming from Nice; no time to