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Plans, Scams, and this Blog, Stevie Gollb Haston.

Image from Google New year full of promise, but empty purse, replete with woe. I want to do some good stuff this year, it doesn’t have to be earth shattering, but it either has to be magical, or majorly monstrous, but always memorial. Bearing this all in mind and the empty purse, one would at first think this is all impossible, but the first step was yesterday. Let me explain. Yesterday I had a little run, I mean little really, it was 5kms! I have been injured since last October, a bad tear in my calf, anyway I been ...


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Technique learning - noticing things

When coaching climbers I’m constantly trying to encourage them to set up a routine both in themselves and as a group of peers climbing together of recording the details of their climbing movement and tactics and discussing the feedback and experimenting with different ways of doing everything. Examples of this might be: how does the move change if you lunge a bit harder, or pull more with the right toe, or use that other foothold instead? The criteria for for success on a move isn’t just if you can ...


Back to normality!

Image from Google I’ve been back in the UK for a week now after 5 weeks in Spain, and to a certain extent it felt as though I hadn’t even left as soon as I got back into some sort of ‘routine’. Routine is perhaps not the best word to describe my life at the moment – it’s all very busy and despite there being a kind of regularity in what I do – eat, sleep, study, train, drive, coach – there are always things which crop up at the last minute and cause me to re-arrange and reconsider! Whenever I…


Seven of Nine

Seven of Nine V14 I still can’t believe the Sky Pilot project went down last night! I was buzzing so much I was unable to go to bed until 5 am, and lay wide-eyed until Freida burst into life at 7. The crucial difference after all those sessions? Several small but crucial ones. First, I had genuinely detached myself from expectation of success. When it’s at your limit, time and time again this seems to be crucial for realising true focus of energy at the right moment, free of interference from the ...


For climbing coaches : “In a Hurricaine…

...even Turkeys can fly” I go on in my book and this blog a lot about influences and their importance on how well we climb. The above quote, reminded to me by a CEO talking about economics, made me nod and agree. In a social group of climbers, like a group of friends, a climbing wall scene, a club etc there are some who are the beacons - they have so much energy and drive that it radiates onto everyone else nearby and helps them learn more, have that extra attempt, try that different foot sequence or ...


Training diary

Training was going damn great until today. A finger is hurting so hence I am writing instead of training today. In the last week I’ve been starting to experiment with having two sessions a day for the first time in over a year. I’ll need to introduce them gently! My routine at the moment is a good couple of hours of shoulder and hip flexibility and end-range holding work to kick things off, then my usual injury rehab exercises (various), then get on the board. I’ve not managed to reproduce 100% of my


Whinlatter - mountain biking in the snow and comic falling off routines

by SlatOfCarlisle


Snowing in november by Stevie Haston

It’s snowing, its dumping, and its only November. There’s ice, frozen waterfalls to be climbed, and a question that I need to answer. Will I climb in the mountains this winter? Yes or no? I am living in Coumayer, Italy at the foot of Montblanc and every day I stare at some great routes that I have dreamt of climbing and some I have climbed but wouldn’t mind doing again. Shall I stay or shall I go? I left the Alps because it’s too serious for a man who loves mountains, steep powder, and wild ice.


TLD world service

These days, it seems every time Adam Ondra goes to any kind of crag anywhere, he produces news. He's simply at a level where 9a in a few tries and 8b+ onsight is nothing out of the ordinary, and although this in no way makes it less impressive, it tends to become a bit... routine? What's happened in the last couple of years however is interesting. Adam has slowly changed his focus from making 2nd ascents of the unrepeated test-pieces (not many left now) to making first ascents. At 17 the young...