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Climbing and the Olympics: Will Climbing Lose its Soul?

Image from Google About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...


Heads-ups on BMC helmet campaign

Image from Google As part of our safety and good practice work in 2012, the BMC will be running a campaign to promote the benefits of helmets.


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Advance notice – A82 road closure

Walkers and climbers may wish to take note of a planned road closure. To ensure the safety of road users, the A82 south of Fort William will close for the weekend of 9-12 December to remove a potentially unstable rock.


The New York Times Looks At Speed Climbing

Image from Google The New York Times has posted a story and video on speed climbing in the world of mountaineering and takes a look at the approach to climbing, which inherently brings some risks for those who choose to go faster in the mountains. The article mentions or quotes a number of big name climbers, including Steve House, who has a few harsh things to say about the approach, saying that speed records are for stroking someone's "ego." The Times also interviews Chad Kellogg about his attempts at a speed record on ...


Pole To Pole Run Update: Halfway There!

Image from Google A little more than a year ago, I wrote about Australian ultrarunner Pat Farmer , who was planning the massive undertaking of actually running from the North Pole to the South Pole. Since then, I hadn't really heard much about the expedition, but it turns out that it launched on schedule this past spring and Farmer is continuing to make impressive progress. Dubbed the Pole To Pole Run , and not to be confused with the Pole2Pole Expedition , Farmer set off from the North Pole last April and has been heading


Forrest Coots

Forrest grew up in the mountains and is the product of a life spent in the outdoors. Born in Klamath Falls, Oregon, he and his family moved to Mount Shasta when he was three. With a ski resort fifteen minutes from his home and parents that worked at the resort, it was natural that Forrest took to skiing at an early age. Forrest's early focus in skiing was geared towards ski racing. During high school, Forrest won two high school state championships and was the 1998 USSA J1 Jr. Olympic Champion in the ...


Remy Lecluse

Born/Age: 05/06/1964 Current Residence: Servoz, Chamonix valley, France Rémy is a professional mountain guide, based in Chamonix, France. He has a 24 years' guiding experience world-wide. He did his first extreme skiing descent on the Aiguille Verte 4121 m (Mt Blanc range) in 1982. Since then he achieves more than 500 extreme descents, including 63 first descents in the Alps, High-Atlas, Lyngen Alps (Norway), Himalayas & Andes. He is among the very few guides who take clients on extreme slopes (including


Bongo Bar, Norway.... or as I like to call it 'Um Bongo'!

I've just spent two weeks shooting stills and video for the Gore Tex Experiace Tour - Norway. The 'tour' gave two winner of a competition, Julia Snihur and Helena Robinson, the chance to climb and explore Arctic Norway with Dave MacLeod. Dave MacLeod, Helena Robinson, Julia Snihur below Blamman We were based at Ersfjorden (or as I like to call it Erik's Fjord) just 15min drive from Norway's northern city of Tromso. Tromso reminds me of a little of Inverness, its population is comparable, it's in the far


Safety, Systems, and Thoughts on Thinking

Image from Google When it comes to safety and systems, shouldn’t we think as objectively as possible? I think so, and I try. I suppose there’s “that one time when…” fear that can affect our thinking, or a “that looks sketchy!” impulse that can override rational thought. But exceptions and extreme examples shouldn’t cloud our thinking with climbing [...]