from gravsports
First off, sorry for the long delay in blogging. I've been stupid busy with everything from getting my first guiding exam done, family, writing, doing a couple of TV shows and of course climbing, mountain biking (broke some ribs, healing now), travel, and just life. Enough excuses, I'm back, thanks for the heckling/encouraging emails. I'm going to do a new section of this blog where I answer questions from readers, starting with these: 1) There has be a lot of discussion on knots for tying ropes to rappel.
published: 7 months ago
|
downloaded: 7 months ago
|
38 views
from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-07-26 The first time I set eyes on Kjerag I knew I wanted to climb it. Perhaps the worlds most famous BASE jumping cliff, this 1000m vertical wall rising straight out from the sea was just asking to be climbed. In most cases dreams like this remain dreams, with logistics, finances and life in general standing firmly in the way, but this time I had my hand held. The Norwegians are such a friendly bunch, and on-it with their organising. As soon as I said I was keen all I
published: 10 months ago
|
downloaded: 10 months ago
|
92 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
|
downloaded: 10 months ago
|
78 views
from The Adventure Blog
Adventure Medical Kits has a great reputation for producing a wide variety of excellent first aid kits for just about any outdoor activity. They've got a range of products for the hiker on an easy day trail all the way up to the mountaineer heading for Everest, with pretty much everything you need in between. Personally, I'm a big fan of their ultralight kits , which are perfect for backpackers and adventure racers. Recently AMK added a nifty little item to their catalog called the Core Lite, a survival
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
90 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
In the last weeks of winter, Grant Meekins and Raphael Slawinski put up a bolt-free ice and mixed line at Storm Creek in the Canadian Rockies. The Peach (WI5 M8, 110m) climbs an overhanging scoop of yellow limestone below an "imposing" dagger of ice hanging from the top of the wall. The duo established the climb ground-up in four short pitches. Slawinski first came across the climb in spring of 2008, and bailed from the third pitch on his first attempt. "We retreated from below a radically overhanging ...
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
97 views
from gravsports
First, sorry for the delay in posting. I've been on a speaking tour, an 80-hour first aid course and some other busy sports actopm. But all good! I answer a fair number of questions about ice, rock and paragliding gear and tactics. I try to always reply to these emails, but it recently hit me that readers of this blog might enjoy the answers as well. I'll try to post some of them up here for grins, using sorta made-up names. Got a question? Send it in, I'll get on it, thanks. Tied Off Ice Screws: Hi Will,
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
68 views
from gravsports
Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo . One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I'm
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
102 views
from gravsports
I tend to geek out on gear pretty heavily, especially when there is some evidence to work with. A while back there was a big debate about equalizing anchors, and I wrote about that here and here . The very short version of my take on equalizing anchor points is that, even in a perfect world with all forces as organized as possible, individual pieces don't end up very well equalized. One bomber piece and preferably two or more is critical. I just re-read an article on this from strikerescue.com , ...
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
125 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
97 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse
published: about 1 year ago
|
downloaded: about 1 year ago
|
60 views
