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North East Ridge Stob Ban

Image from Google For today we were looking for a good grade 3 ridge leading to a summit. The weather forecast wasn't as good as yesterday but low winds and moderate avalanche forecasts gave us a few different options. After a recommendation from a friend we decided for the North East Ridge of Stob Ban. On leaving the Glen Nevis car park it was snowing heavily and this continued for most of the morning. The route began by crossing a snow slope into a NE facing gully. Whilst I was ascending I triggered a small slab avalanche


Avalanche on the Ben.

Today we were up on Ben Nevis for a wee look about. In general there is lots of snow, and winter climbing conditions are looking good, and there were very few people about. There has been a large avalanche from below the Orion face. The crown wall ran all the way from below the first platform of North East Buttress to below Observatory Ridge. In the photo I have marked the most obvious bit of the crown wall in red. The height of this crown wall was quite variable, and in some sections it was quite shallow


December 8, 2011

Image from Google A Serious Rappelling Accident Last week Frank Sarat, an experienced climber and Potrero veteran, in a moment of lapsed concentration rappelled off the end of his rope, falling about 20 feet to the ground and suffering some serious injuries.    We had been cleaning a section of wall, two pitches up,  in preparation for bolting [...]


Avioding Creepy Crawlies on Tioman Island

On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress (5.10R/X, 270m) marks the first recorded ascent of the Horns' north tower, and Batu Naga (5.12R 300m) climbs "one of the proudest looking lines on the entire formation" up a prominent buttress on the south tower. Wright heard about the formation from Scotty Nelson, who did the first ascent of the south tower in 1999 and ...


Chinese American Team Makes First Ascent of 6060m Mt. Yangmolong

Image from Google On October 20 (2011) Jon Otto, Liu Yong (Daliu), Su Rongqin (Asu), and Tim Boelter made the first successful ascent of Mt. Yangmolong (6060m) in western Sichuan province of China. The conditions were better than hoped for and the was route fun and sustained. This peak is part of the Shaluli Shan Range and is on the border with eastern Tibet. This entire region is known as Kham and is ethnically Tibetan. Most of Yangmolong's north side is covered in unstable hanging glacier seracs high up on its face. The


Antarctica 2011: And They're Off!

Image from Google Earlier this week I posted the news that ALE's aircraft had finally started shuttling Antarctic explorers onto the ice, and after spending weeks in Punta Arenas, the teams seemed eager to get underway. Now, a few days later, most have left the Union Glacier Camp behind, and are now making their way South along a variety of routes. Amongst the teams that have finally gotten underway are the Aussie duo of James Castrission and Justin Jones . The two men caught a lift out to Hercules Inlet, the location of


Shark's Fin Full Report

Image from Google American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days


Cornwall cliff collapse

Footage of a section of the North Cornish coast collapsing into the sea.


Back From Costa Rica And The World Rafting Championship

Image from Google As I mentioned last week, I spent the weekend in Costa Rica attending the World Rafting Championship , which is actually still going on as I write this, although a champion should be crowned today. When I left on Thursday, I wasn't sure what to expect out of the event, but found that it was a fun competition with some excellent teams and dedicated group of fans on hand to support their country. The event is taking place in Turrialba , which is a bit off the beaten tourist path in Costa Rica, but offers ...


The Only Mistake

Image from Google It was surprisingly easy to wake up at 5am. The sun was still hiding behind the opposite hill, but the oppressive heat was instantly noticeable. Breakfast went down and final items were packed in relative silence, words were not really needed, we both knew what to do. The walk to the base of the wall was as horrible as ever, the uneven ground unbalancing you at every step, bringing your stumbling sleepy body uncomfortably close to some rather large drops. The sanctuary of the ancient and crusty fixed lines