from Online Climbing Coach
When coaching climbers I’m constantly trying to encourage them to set up a routine both in themselves and as a group of peers climbing together of recording the details of their climbing movement and tactics and discussing the feedback and experimenting with different ways of doing everything. Examples of this might be: how does the move change if you lunge a bit harder, or pull more with the right toe, or use that other foothold instead? The criteria for for success on a move isn’t just if you can ...
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Petzl Crew
Gabriele Moroni our italian team athlete, has finally redpointed the route named "Coup de Bambou" (9a), one of the hardest picthes in the Great Arch! Here are some words from his personnal blog : Gabriele Moroni : "First day I climb on easier stuffs and learn the style. I decide to attack on my second day! Already on my first try I'm able to do all the moves... as I thought the bottom part suits well my climbing... about 30° steep wall, big but precise moves, pinches, edges and a few balls features! And
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
Paul Robinson has been on a sustained bouldering trip for a while now, starting in Europe, then South Africa and after that who knows. Fortunately he began recording some of the problems he has been doing in conjunction with his girlfriend Alex Kahn. I say fortunately because Paul has been somewhat under the radar in terms of video recently and there are few boulderers with better style out there right now with such an impressive ticklist. Paul also has a degree in the fine arts from the University of ...
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Helena Robinson on Shear Fear, E2 5c, Ratho Quarry I was nervous about the weekend. From everyone who applied to our competition to win the climbing trip in Norway with us, we had already chosen 4 great climbers, all of whom sounded ideal for the project. How to choose 2 from them? It’s obviously not something I’m used to doing, and I found it hard. But we had a nice weekend. With mega downpours soaking bits of Scotland at random, we stuck to Ratho Quarry so we could keep climbing indoors if we were
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On June 21, Dave MacLeod, with his partner Andy Turner, freed an old aid route on the sea cliffs of Northern Scotland's Orkney Island. MacLeod's free version of The Longhope (8b/8b+) saw its first aid attempts in 1970, and after seven days and twenty-seven pitches, Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill reached the sea stack's summit. Later, Johnny Dawes, John Dunne, John Arran and Dave Turnbull made attempts to free it; though, none were completed in a single push. When MacLeod took to The Longhope, he completed it
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
The Black Canyon near Gunnison, CO is still a largely untapped big wall resource. Known for its difficult approaches, suspect rock and poorly protected routes, it is a destination that attracts the experienced and bold. The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+) on the North Chasm View Wall of the canyon has stood as a big wall classic since its first ascent by Bryan Becker in 1980. Becker graded it A5 and spent seventeen days working on the route. Since that first ascent, the wall has seen a fair number of repeats,
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-06-07 Or the God Of all Traverses? Im not the fittest of climbers, but its not often that I turn up at a cliff and only manage one route before crawling off exhausted! But the mega traverse at Craig-y-Longridge is way longer than the average route! Craig-y-Longridge is one of those places that as a climber you just have to visit. Maybe not the most amazing cliff, but its got history and a share of fame. It was almost lost recently before the good old BMC bought it
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
Adam Ondra gives his thoughts on Total Eclipse , the unrepeated 8c+/9a from John Dunne:
"I believe there is a sequence even for shorter climbers, slightly harder, but still possible..."
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
After my all-too-brief stay in North Wales, I went to Sheffield with Alan James director of Rockfax Publishing and UKClimbing . This was a great opportunity to revisit a place I had not been to since college when I spent a couple of semesters at the university and doing a lot of climbing, especially on gritstone. Coming from a background of New Hampshire granite, the cracks and slabs of Peak District gritstone were a natural fit but there was also the allure of entering an intense urban climbing scene, the
published: 12 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-05-30 The Quarry Man This route is the stuff of legends! And climbed by the legend Johnny Dawes. Blasted into fame in the film Stone Monkey with a Zappa sound track that elevated the route above every other in the quarries. Even the simple name blatantly indicates that this isnt just another slab or wall. This is THE masterpiece, climbing out from the biggest hole via the biggest challenges. Ive wanted to try it for years, but its not something to casually walk up
published: 12 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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