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The need to pull hard

A week of coaching abroad last week marked the end of a crazy few months of various work projects. Last week was very strange, going climbing every day and having great days but only on easy routes. I was absolutely stir crazy on the way home to pull hard on some small holds again. The need to take things to extremes seems to be a deep set part of human nature, and not just ego driven need to stand out from a crowd. Climbing at a relaxed pace without battling my way up routes to the last just doesn’t ...


World Climbing - Rock Odyssey, by Simon Carter

2009 was our first foray to the unknown delights of Vietnam and its limestone towers in Ha Long Bay. (You can find our 2009 trip reports and video here ). We had a stack of fun and I was particularly impressed by one limestone tower which had just two routes ( The Face 7b+ and License to Climb 7b). It was the most impressive and striking towers I'd seen in a bay which has over 2,000 limestone towers. After we left, I kept in the back of my mind the dream of establishing an extension to License to Climb ...


Preparation for the good conditions season

Image from Google Alex on ‘Boeing 747’ 7c, Monsterveggen, Stavanger I’ve been quite enjoying a little time without any project focus in particular except training for the season of cold weather and holding onto small holds again. The Scottish autumn delug...


Preparation for the good conditions season

Alex on ‘Boeing 747’ 7c, Monsterveggen, Stavanger I’ve been quite enjoying a little time without any project focus in particular except training for the season of cold weather and holding onto small holds again. The Scottish autumn deluge has been not frustratingly bad, so no chances to get on my sport project. But at least absence makes the heart more psyched. Last week, an enforced week of no climbing due to a bit of film work helped even more to make me super restless to climb. I’m just home ...


Norway videos

Two nice videos below by Paul Diffley of Helena and Julia climbing in Ersfjord and Gulknausen. Yesterday, Donald and Helena went for a big ridge traverse run over Blamman and the chain of mountains beyond. Meanwhile I spent more time cleaning and trying moves on new routes. Right now we are waiting for the cool of the evening (plus dilligently cultivating fingertip skin) so we have half a chance of holding small holds in the roofs of Ersfjord. Paul is sitting beside me editing another video, which will be


Ersfjord time

Julia scoping out new route potential A little rain sweeps across Ersfjord. It didn’t last. Helena getting ready and climbing Turistklasse - a lovely traverse out above the space below. Everyone’s fingertips are really suffering now at the hands of the unforgiving Ersfjord granite. Even after a rest our tips were still pink and small holds feel unpleasant to pull on. However, we went for it anyway. I bolted a superb line on a massive roof after two tries I was ready for a redpoint try, all except my


Time for small holds again

Vector Space 7c+, Tunnel Wall. Pics by Steven Gordon . The past couple of weeks have flown by, doing work for Mountain Equipment, Gore-Tex and the John Muir Trust among others, and grabbing climbing days in between. First off I nipped up to Tunnel Wall with Steven Gordon after work and climbed an excellent new line I bolted a couple of months ago. It’s the obvious diagonal overlap running across the wall from Uncertain Emotions to eventually finish up the top half of my own route Axiom (which was ...


Working weak

Presenting on the Mountain Equipment stand in Germany Interviews Speaking about our Gore Experience Tour project in Norway. It’s been a manic week of work. Travelling to the Outdoor Trade show presenting and talking to my sponsors, writing and organising a pile of stuff that needs organised. In between times, I’ve been back on my board learning to pull on small holds again after all the trad. Tomorrow, A few days of climbing will begin again. Please don't rain... Dave MacLeod My book - 9 out of 10 ...


Getting them in on Orkney

The soaring crack pitch of Mucklehouse Wall, E5 6a Since completing the Longhope Direct, our trip on Orkney has been light of step but heavy of leg. The team are all feeling a tad fatigued from great efforts of rigging, filming and eating a lot of cake to replace all the calories that you seem to burn here. For me it’s been a lovely slow release and realisation that the route is done and I can wake up a little more to the sights and sounds of Hoy without the blinkering weight of focus on the project that


Muy Caliente E10 - Flash, so close...

Image from Google Whilst it might have seemed to many people that I had dropped off the face of the earth (and I would probably include some of my sponsors, friends and family in those people), I was simply taking a step away from what I knew, and wondering how differently things would appear from another viewpoint. Jacob Schroedel I knew that things would change, they had to - the trouble was I just didn’t know quite how. I wanted to better myself by training my weaknesses, but knew that since my strengths lay in trad,