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Himalaya 2011: Everest North Side Updates

Image from Google Over the past few weeks there has been a flurry of activity on the South Side of Everest, as the commercial teams are well organized, and worked together to fix the ropes. That has led to the first wave of summits, and as we all know, many climbers are currently moving up the mountain to get in place for a second summit push at the end of the week, when a 48-hour weather window is expected to open once again. But getting news from the North Side of the mountain has been especially difficult this season and


It's On Like Donkey Kong!

Image from Google It's been forever since my last blog post. As much as I love being constantly on the road, sometimes I just need a little break from it all; hotel rooms, airports, rental cars, airline food, speaking a foreign language, people that come and go… Traveling can get tough sometimes, so I've been chilling in Finland for a while and getting psyched to hit the road again. © Nalle Hukkataival The climbing season here in Finland has been over for long after we got a record amount of snow already at the end of


It's on!

Image from Google So, things are finally starting to look 'interesting' on the hill. A small window of opportunity appeared on the weather forecasts a couple of days ago, a 36 hour window to be precise. There are actually two types of weather information that we assess to find a decent summit window: the general precipitation (i.e snow and temperature) and, more importantly, the position of the jet stream. The summit of Everest lies fully in the planet's jet stream, winds so strong (118+mph), that climbers would literally


More Thoughts on Mallory, Irvine and the Camera

Last week I posted a story about an upcoming search to fine George Mallory and Sandy Irvine's missing camera on Everest. When the story broke at that time, the news was that Everest historian Tom Holzel had been using satellite imagery of the mountain to search for the body of Irvine, who was the climbing partner of Mallory on their fateful 1924 expedition. Holzel believes that he has now found the missing climber, and perhaps a camera that could put an end to more than 85 years of speculation. Ever since


The Summit is Only Half-Way There…Lessons From K2

Image from Google This last Friday, 18 climbers made a dramatic run for the elusive summit of K2.  18 Climbers were successful.  The second highest peak in the world boasts the highest death ratioat 3 to 1one death for every three people to summit, and also is considered by many to the the hardest mountain to conquer in the world. With the successful summits Friday leading to jubilation, it is well reminded that the summit is only half of the journeynext they have to get down.  At this crucial momment K2 decided to let