from Mountains and Water
Welcome to the long dark days of winter. The snow finally melted off here in Boulder and bouldering outside is once more an option. Not that I have been doing much of that. A couple of weeks off due to weather and various illnesses and suddenly my Christmas break was over. Before Christmas, I felt as though my training was going quite well and now I am trying to recover that standard, little by little. I have very nice simple but effective training set-up in my basement which has been very helpful in ...
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Stevie Haston
Enzo Oddo (French) does the Rambla 9a+, he is 16 now, not bad at all. Some good French lads cranking at the moment, but as with most countries the industry is not supporting the climbers, and climbing is not reflecting the standards of these fine athletes. Ondra continues to dominate the field but has unfortunately chosen to pursue bouldering for a short while. His success at this is not a great surprise to many given his brilliant background but his recent flash of a Font 8b+ standard is not moving the
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
The Amphu Lapcha A quick and cold fair well was given to Baruntse base camp as we got underway for Chukhung. This was expected to be a 12 hour day which would be a shock to the system after trekking for 6 hours at most on the walk in. Walking most of the way with Debbie and Gordon, we all doubted our ability to get over the Amphu Lapcha; however the prospect of failing wasn’t too great as the Amphu Lapcha was the only reasonable way out of the valley other than a helicopter… our time would come for ...
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from gravsports
First off, sorry for the long delay in blogging. I've been stupid busy with everything from getting my first guiding exam done, family, writing, doing a couple of TV shows and of course climbing, mountain biking (broke some ribs, healing now), travel, and just life. Enough excuses, I'm back, thanks for the heckling/encouraging emails. I'm going to do a new section of this blog where I answer questions from readers, starting with these: 1) There has be a lot of discussion on knots for tying ropes to rappel.
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
’King of Drunks' V6, Llanberis Pass, Wales. Photo: Richard Enticknap I’m just home for a couple of weeks after a manic few weeks travelling about working. The bulk of my work has been two fantastic film shoots with Triple Echo Productions. I’ve played the part of a daring 1870’s Hebridean farmer/new router and climbed 4 pitch new sport routes on a huge new crag in the middle of the Peak District! Yes it was an interesting time! More on those when I have some pics to show you through from Triple ...
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Stevie Haston
Anne Marie Gross 4th again 91h28mn only 9mn slower than last year! Well this is going to be short because I don’t want to dwell on my own failure too much. The Tor this year was like the Tor last year a totally fab and fantastic experience. If anything thing the field of runners was of a better standard and more prepared with people like me having the benefit of finishing the year before. Last year there were 9 runners inside 100 hours, this year 12, but this doesn’t count the possible! For instance
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
The interweb is abuzz recently with items that touch on the issues of cheating in climbing. Jamie Emerson started off with a post on steroids and then followed up with a discussion of Evil Backwards being altered and made easier than the V14 it started out as. Andrew Bisharat, in his post on "Climbers Who Cheat," asks the question 'Is dropping weight in order to succeed on a hard ascent “cheating”?' And so on... While I would not make the argument that cheating doesn't exist in climbing, I wonder if
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from James Pearson
The 4th pitch roof of La Cardaire The next project is underway, and has already begun gathering speed. I have started to become more and more intrigued by the world of hard multi-pitch and big walls and over the last few months have started to make my first visits to this world. The eventual idea is to create something very long, very hard, and very scary, but this final phase is still quite a long way off in the future. Now is the time to begin developing the necessary skills, by attempting and repeating
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Keywords:
Zimmerman,
Allen,
climb,
Westman,
route,
glacier,
ridgeline,
peak,
Foraker,
Peak 12,214
On May 26, Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman established a new route in the northwest fork of the Lacuna Glacier on the southern ridgeline of Mt. Foraker. Their climb, "To the Center" ( AK 4 AI2, 4500'), runs along a couloir for the majority of its 4,500 feet, then strikes a thin and precarious southeast ridgeline. There, the two climbed to the route's 12,214-foot pinnacle in five hours and forty-five minutes. This ridgeline also links two of their previous attempts at the ridge's high point, and they said
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
In what should come as no surprise to cycling fans everywhere, it was announced yesterday that Alberto Contador will ride in this year's Tour de France , despite a looming hearing with the International Cycling Union and World Anti-Doping Agency over allegations that he may have taken a banned substance. You may recall that the three-time defending Tour champion tested positive for the drug clenbuterol during last year's race and has claimed that the trace amounts detected in his system were a result of
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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