from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today was a perfect for the outdoor and indoor combination. With a nice morning forecast, John, Johnny and I headed up into Glencoe to have a play around on some of the steep snow slopes within Coire nan Tulach. The aim of the day was to workshop our short roping skills and share ideas about ways of looking after people on steep snow. We played around with various techniques looking at the pro's and con's, discussed when each technique is best applied under different conditions. We looked at ascending and
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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46 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
American climbers John Frieh, Zac West and Davie Burdick claimed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8500-foot tower west of Mount Burkett on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. The expedition was funded by the Copp Dash Inspire Award and the Mazamas Climbing Club. The trio's new route, Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 AI3 M5), is the sixth ascent of the peak. The Burkett Needle was first climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and Dan Davis on the north buttress. The mountain was not summited for a
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Alaska. Anchorage local Clint Helander and his partner Scotty Vincik took advantage of near perfect late winter conditions to claim the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus (9,170 ft) in Alaska's Revelation Mountains. Located in the southwest corner of the Alaska Range, the Revelations are a somewhat obscure pocket of steep granite peaks. Helander first heard of the Revelations in 2006 and had been dreaming of them ever since. In 2007, after receiveing the American Alpine Club's Mountain Fellowship Grant, Helander
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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87 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
During unusually favorable winter conditions in the Julian Alps, two Slovenian climbers established a direct variation up the north face of Triglav (2864m). Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnc spent 33 hours linking together parts of three summer routes to form their direct line. The new route is named Sanjski Joza (VI/V, M7+, 1050m) or "Dream Joza" in honor of Joza Cop who first climbed its upper section in the summer of 1945. The first two sections of the new line include portions of Sakalaska (summer V+)
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In a flurry of activity, climbers from Scotland, Germany, Portugal, Russia, Pakistan, China and Britain established new routes and first ascents in areas throughout Asia this summer, including Afghanistan, Pakistan and China. Pakistan In August, Russians Vjacheslav Ivanov and Oleg Koltunov climbed a new route on the west face of K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan. Italians Lorenzo Angelozzi and Daniele Nardi spent 10 days on the same face and though they established eight pitches over 270
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.--Ed. Four climbers from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne climbed a new route on Augusta (4289m) in the St. Elias Range this spring, making what may be the fifth ascent of the mountain. To reach the base of Augusta's northeast spur, climbers Sebastien Bohin, Sebastien Moatti, ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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56 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman of Washington State have established a significant new route on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley (9,104') in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range. Noteworthy for its sustained difficulty, the route also marks an early start to the season: Allen and Zimmerman were likely the only climbers braving a series of early April storms on the high peaks. Vitalogy (Alaska Grade V: M6+ WI5 5.9 R A1, 4,600') ascends what Zimmerman calls "a striking line of ice" about 350 meters right
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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80 views
