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Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

Image from Google The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre , who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all. On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be ...


Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

Image from Google It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre , who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however,the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several


The Ascent Of Rum Doodle

Image from Google Whilst dining at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu after the ascent of Baruntse Mera Peak , I decided to buy ‘The Ascent of Rum Doodle’ by W.E. Bowman. I had heard great reviews from the leaders and people who had previously read the book which is held in high regard among climbers. Reading the book is a delight, and the story pure genius. As I cannot do the book sufficient justice, below is an extract. If you understand the humour of this page and have never read the book, I strongly urge you to


2012 Mugs Stump Grant Recipients

Image from Google 2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that


East ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn

Image from Google Pretty wet and mild up in Scotland today, freezing level was above the summits and the rain just kept on coming! Katy and I opted for a nice ridge where we could keep moving without any difficulties but kept some interest. I had wanted to do the East ridge of Beinn a' Chorainn after Al had mentioned it to me a while back. Good fun for a foul day like today. The snow pack was saturated all the way through to the ground, there were some signs of old ice around but everything was pretty mushy. A few small ...


Climber Becomes First To Climb "Second Seven Summits"

Earlier this week, Italian mountaineer HansKammerlander became the first person to climb the "Second Seven Summits," which are the mountains that are the second highest on each of the seven continents. Kammerlander complete his quest in Antarctica, where he reached the top of the 4851 meter (15,916 ft) Mt. Tyree. According to the Adventure Journal , Hans is just the eighth person to nab that summit in the past 15 years. Kammerlander climbed his first "second-seven" back in 2001, when he successfully topped


Climbing High, Setting Goals, and Getting Involved with the AAC

Image from Google Longtime AAC Member and multiple Research Grant awardee Jon Kedrowski spoke with us about alpine research in the American West, what climbing goals mean to him, and  his most recent project—bivying on the summit of each of Colorados 14,000 peaks over the span of 95 days. Patience is truly a ... Read more...


Avalanche on Aonach Mor

Finally there was a break in the high winds which seem to have been battering Scotland over the past few weeks. I took the oppertunity to get up on to the summit of Aonach Mor. From the plateau I saw evidence of a large slab avalanche in Coire an Lochain. In this picture I have marked the crown wall (or what I could see) in the picture above in red. I estimated this to be over 200 metres long. There was plenty of debris right down to the loch. This avalanche probabley released sometime on Wednesday during


Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Antarctica 2011: Jordan Romero's Summit Photos!

Image from Google As I mentioned last week , on Christmas Eve, teen-age mountaineer Jordan Romero reached the top of Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, completing his quest to climb the Seven Summits. In the process, Jordan became the youngest person to ever achieve that feat and has served as an inspiration for others around the world. Jordan and his family have now returned home to Big Bear in California and a much deserved rest, but I thought you might be interested in seeing a couple of summit photos from his final Seven Summits