from gravsports
Are Ice Tool Leashes As Archaic as Gaiters, Screamers and Third Tools? The picture above is the last one I could find in my photo collection where I have a leash on a tool--Norway 2005. This is another blog post inspired by a question from a reader. The question was roughly, "I was wondering your take on leashless climbing for beginners? I am a sorta old school ice climber that still uses leashes for those 4 days a year I manage to get out ice climbing. (father in washington state) I feel that I don't get
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Kevin Jorgeson
A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy. The injury occurred while attempting the 8 foot sideways dyno on pitch 15. On my first attempt of the season, I threw with everything I had, hoping to stick the move with the muscle memory from last year. I made good contact with
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
Bob Hickish has added a hard new sport route to Blackers Hole in Dorset. His new 8c route Endeavour is described:
Start up Infinite Gravity to level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and underneath the big roof to deposit you at the bottom of the hanging 30 degree orange wall that makes the other side of the huge ships prow...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Just a quick reminder that I'm giving away a couple of great gear items this week to help celebrate Earth Day , which is this Friday. The two items that are up for grabs include a GoLite Men's Litespeed Backpack and a Verde 20 sleeping bag from Sierra Designs . Both are great products and would certainly come in handy on your next trip. To enter the contest all you have to do is send me an e-mail at kungfujedi@gmail.com with the subject of "yourLume." In the body of your message leave me a little note ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Online Climbing Coach
...even Turkeys can fly” I go on in my book and this blog a lot about influences and their importance on how well we climb. The above quote, reminded to me by a CEO talking about economics, made me nod and agree. In a social group of climbers, like a group of friends, a climbing wall scene, a club etc there are some who are the beacons - they have so much energy and drive that it radiates onto everyone else nearby and helps them learn more, have that extra attempt, try that different foot sequence or ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
The snow is melting fast and I am hoping to get some climbing done outside this weekend. Here are two videos of problems I did in the last few months. The first is a repeat of a two-move problem called Glass Plus, a likely V9 FA I did a couple of years ago . The crux is pulling off the ground and holding the swing. Glass Plus V9 from peter beal on Vimeo . The second video is an ascent of Right Finger SDS, a cool little V7 down the ridge from Crown Rock, at the Candel Area . This problem is very sharp and
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Kev Shields Climbing
In the past few days I've been out a couple of times to get into the swing of ice climbing again, just in time for the thaw!!! My foot is causing increasing pain but I cant stop getting out and climbing ,time to admit to myself I'm hopelessly addicted to climbing perhaps? I went up to the CIC cascades with Rich on Thursday and even though it was thawing rapidly we had a good day on the ice. Only one other party on the hill which was the quietest I've ever seen the Ben on a good winters day. Rich on the ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
I recently wrote an article about what I feel is the basic sequence for steep ice climbing: Squat, stand, swing. I'm on a roll today with the video, I just pulled a clip from the Ice Mines video that illustrates this pretty well. When this clip was shot I wasn't even thinking about how I was climbing, it's just how I climb. Kinda cool to see it. Anyhow, here it is:
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
Keywords:
swing,
Grip,
tool,
ice tool,
two different grips,
effective swing,
hand rotates,
text explanation,
shoulder,fingers,
fast video shot
A few people emailed to say that my text explanation for how to grip and swing an ice tool wasn't super clear. Here's a fast video shot in my back yard about 30 minutes ago that might help explain the two different grips used to swing and then hang onto an ice tool. A few additional notes on hanging on and swinging: -My hand rotates from the "Swing" to the "Grip" position ever single time I get a placement and then hang off the tool. Easier than it sounds. -The tool rotates around my pinky finger pretty
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
I've done a whack of ice climbing and coaching the same in the last two weeks, and it's made me think of a few "small things" that make a huge difference for climbing ice. Most of this stuff is in my book or other writing somewhere, but I have to relearn it myself every season. The basic technique of steep ice climbing is pretty well diagrammed now (Put in a high tool, straight arm, walk feet over and then up keeping arm straight, stand, not pull, up, place high tool, repeat to top) but there are endless
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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110 views
