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Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston.

Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston. Trad climbing is certainly doomed from what I have seen lately, the once and only way to climb is now just a circus side show! The free climbing ethic grew very slowly over many years until it became established in its proper form in the 1970s, there were many fight arguments and discussions along the way. There were also great climbers and some great impassioned ascents that showed that it was all possible. Out of the many examples


Guess Where Swanky Will Break Down(First)? Or – A Pool to Fund Repairs

Last year, Swanky the van was brand new, to me. I bought it from a cop, and my mother(who was a nurse) once told me “Eye doctors can't see; ear doctors are deaf, and psychiatrists are crazy.” Well, I figure that line of thinking probably goes beyond the boundaries of the medical field, if you know what I mean. Now I know there are plenty of optometrists with 20/20 vision, just like most police are law-abiding citizens, but if the lies this guy told me about that van weren't a crime, I don't know what


Evel Knievel

Only a few days to go until Kalymnos 2011, so time to get some training in on something steep. Frey Yule's route Evel Knievel 29/8a at Coolum was a likely target. It starts up Evil Wears No Pants 30/8a+ with a burly, 70 degree overhung, 11 move boulder to a good kneebar before cutting a traverse directly left for several bodylengths and then a transition back to "up" climbing to finish up the last three or so bolts of the route Ground Control . I'd been on the route in March this year while conditions were


Tour 2011: The Alps Deliver High Drama

Image from Google Heading into today's Stage 18 of the Tour de France , we knew that we could expect some fireworks between the top contenders in the GC. But what we didn't know was that one of those contenders would put in an amazing attack, while another would see his hopes of winning dashed beyond repair. The 200.5km (124.5 mile) stage ran between Pinerolo and Galibier-Serre Chevalier and featured high mountain passes, and three uncategorized climbs to sap the strength of the riders in the Peloton. The ride started as


New horizons

Anna enjoying Sky Pilot bouldering Spooky forest One of hundreds - no joke Straight out of Switzerland Cave of granite crimps - yesterday’s prize Progress on my project has been up and down. I got past the main crux another three times and felt like it was right there, only to fail convincingly on the next move every time. It’s well hard. And sadly, now it’s too hot. Today it was 19 degrees and it felt like I was climbing it with a rucksack on. And that’s despite feeling super fit from daily ...


More news on the Pembroke 2011 access arrangements

Arguably some of the best sea cliff climbing in the UK but also home to tanks, unexploded bombs, and some pretty amazing wildlife! This strange and at times incongrous mix, when combined with some tricky tides, calls for some basic planning before arranging a trip to this climbing wonderland. via BMC Access [...] More news on the Pembroke 2011 access arrangements is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also


Pembroke 2011 Access Arrangments

Image from Google Arguably some of the best sea cliff climbing in the UK - but also home to tanks, unexploded bombs, and some pretty amazing wildlife! This strange and at times incongrous mix, when combined with some tricky tides, calls for some basic planning before arranging a trip to this climbing wonderland.


Upon Arrival....

Despite my dark, and never mentioned aloud, concerns, the van made it to Joshua Tree. I rolled into one of the primo sites in Hidden Valley Campground last night about nine pm. Not without drama, of course. But each epic was a “Terrie-type” one; that is to say – no true inconvenience was involved. The first on-the-road problem arose just after I left from my family visit in Wisconsin, where I enjoyed leisurely days of lounging on my sister's couches while the wretched Wisconsin winter taunted me ...


Repoint tactics: pacing

Finding the most efficient pace in repointing is huge area and isn’t as simple as climbers might hope. The basics of pacing are that it’s a good idea to climb fast; as fast as possible without sacrificing accuracy. But even this isn’t so simple as occasionally on steep burly climbs with big positive holds, it can be better to err more on the side of speed even if accuracy is sacrificed a little bit. Climbing fast comes from being good at climbing. And being good at climbing comes from having a lot of


Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 6 (Grande Grotta rematch)

So, you might remember from the other day that we had a score to settle. There was a few things on the agenda and the crew was rather psyched. Psyched enough to get up earlier (ugh!) and walk up the hill to be the first ones at the crag for our pick of the routes. Get the photographer in position, things are about to start... Match up's for the day Glenn vs Trella 40m 7a Matt vs Ivi 18m 7b Owen vs DNA 20m 7a+ **Title fight in the main arena** Susy vs Trella 40m 7a Glenn was up first on Trella . After a few