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Five Great Laptops For Travelers

Image from Google My recent trip to the Caribbean was filled with lots of fun activities, including hiking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and sailing. It wasn't all just about fun in the sun however, as the trip was hosted by Microsoft, who assembled a group of travel writers to give us the scoop on some fantastic tools and laptops that could be of benefit for travelers of all types. Some of those tools included cloud storage service Skydrive , which is a great way to share video and photos from your trip, and Movie Maker and


Controversy Surrounds Alaskan Route

Image from Google On May 26, Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman established a new route in the northwest fork of the Lacuna Glacier on the southern ridgeline of Mt. Foraker. Their climb, "To the Center" ( AK 4 AI2, 4500'), runs along a couloir for the majority of its 4,500 feet, then strikes a thin and precarious southeast ridgeline. There, the two climbed to the route's 12,214-foot pinnacle in five hours and forty-five minutes. This ridgeline also links two of their previous attempts at the ridge's high point, and they said


Everest Base Camp trek day 13 - Lurching up to Lobuche

We stood leaning on our poles, gasping for breath in the cold morning air at the top of the steep hill directly behind the lodge, right at the start of the trek from Dingboche to Lobuche. "How high have we climbed now?" asked Lise, in between gasps for oxygen that just wasn't there. I checked my watch. "10 metres," I panted, "only 390 to go..." "Al..." she replied, "....don't do that." The mornings were becoming increasingly hard, as Lise's panic breathing (Cheyne-Stokes Respiration, apparently) was ...


Summer is Winding Up

Image from Google The summer is ending all of a sudden, I reflected, as I wandered around the crusty jagged boulders of Upper Chaos on Wednesday. I went up there to try Barbed Wire Beard, which for once was dry. The weather was perfect, though a bit warm for this very crimpy problem. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, the altitude was proving to be a problem here. A few inconclusive tries after working out the end was I all I had to show for my efforts. I feel as if I could get there feeling OK, the problem would go so it


Everest Supersuit Performance Update!

Image from Google Over the past month and a half or so, I've had a number of readers e-mail me wondering how the Everest Supersuit , designed and tested on the mountain by Expedition Hanesbrands , performed while in the Himalaya. It's easy to understand why there is so much curiosity and excitement around the suit, as it promises all the warmth of a traditional down filled parka, but at a fraction of the bulkiness. In fact, a typical down suit is as much as 40 mm thick, while the Supersuit is a mere 3 mm. A major ...


Variation Connects Two Major Routes on Mt. Bradley

Image from Google During a five-day, early May blitz from the Ruth Glacier in Alaska, John Frieh and Dylan Johnson climbed a new variation on Mt. Bradley (9,104'). They also snuck in a lap on the popular Ham and Eggs (V 5.9 AI4, 2,900'), which climbs The Mooses Tooth (10,355'). Initial conditions reports led the pair to scout Bradley's East Buttress (5.10 70 degrees, 1400m), a pure rock route. However, several slabs low on the route were covered with a layer of loose, sugary snow. Still intent on climbing the buttress, they


What school can’t teach you about climbing hard

I just did some interviews about my climbing for various publications. The questions, in one way or another, ask “what is your secret”? It’s especially relevant in my case as I can’t answer that I’m naturally strong, or thin or talented or started climbing before I could walk. I’ve given roundabout answers for years, not understanding the underlying theme myself. In parallel I’ve tried to understand why climbers I’ve coached plateau where they do with apparently all the practical ...


What school can’t teach you about climbing hard

I just did some interviews about my climbing for various publications. The questions, in one way or another, ask “what is your secret”? It’s especially relevant in my case as I can’t answer that I’m naturally strong, or thin or talented or started climbing before I could walk. I’ve given roundabout answers for years, not understanding the underlying theme myself. In parallel I’ve tried to understand why climbers I’ve coached plateau where they do with apparently all the practical ...


Chad Kellogg Completes New Route On Aconcagua

American climber Chad Kellogg has completed a new route on Aconcagua, going up solo and in alpine style, up the South Face. According to this story , courtesy of ExWeb , the new route took 42 hours to complete, covering more than 2000 meters (6561 feet) of new terrain in the process. According to ExWeb Chad went to Argentina, along with a good friend, back in December with an eye on climbing Aconcagua, which is the tallest peak in South America at 22,841 feet. The pair acclimatized on the normal route ...


Glen Coe - Ice Ice Ice!!!

On the first ascent of Jane’s weep, Glen Coe Last week with Donald I’d spied some desperate looking but amazing steep ice smears on the Lady Jane wall on Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. Exactly how ice climbers dream of thin ice face routes could be - ice smears a few mms thick and occasional blobs running boldly up a wall, eventually gaining ever-thickening ice to finish on an overhanging pillar. And so today we had a bit of a desert island ice route day. First off Blair romped up a steep crack and ice ...