from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
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from Mountains and Water
In a previous post, I discussed my feelings about the transformation of climbing into a luxury sport, at least at a certain end of the socio-economic spectrum. I posted a Youtube Video of an ad made by Citibank that features Katie Brown and Alex Honnold. Here's the video: Given the dismal economic picture in the US right now and the fact that big American banks in particular have had a great deal to do with it, it was natural that the ad would spark a certain degree of controversy. A forum post on Mountain
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from Stevie Haston
Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston. Trad climbing is certainly doomed from what I have seen lately, the once and only way to climb is now just a circus side show! The free climbing ethic grew very slowly over many years until it became established in its proper form in the 1970s, there were many fight arguments and discussions along the way. There were also great climbers and some great impassioned ascents that showed that it was all possible. Out of the many examples
published: 6 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
2009 was our first foray to the unknown delights of Vietnam and its limestone towers in Ha Long Bay. (You can find our 2009 trip reports and video here ). We had a stack of fun and I was particularly impressed by one limestone tower which had just two routes ( The Face 7b+ and License to Climb 7b). It was the most impressive and striking towers I'd seen in a bay which has over 2,000 limestone towers. After we left, I kept in the back of my mind the dream of establishing an extension to License to Climb ...
published: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Last month, a four-man Russian team established a new route on the northwest face of Pakistan's Trango Tower (6251m). No Fear (VII 6B+ A3, 1120m) put up by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, Viktor Volodin and Alexander Yurkin, is the first largely independent route established in the Trango Group in more than a decade. Trango's northwest face is host to one other established route: Insumisioa (VI A3+ 6A), a 1995 creation of Basque climbers Antonio Aqueretta, Fermin Izco and Mikel Zabalza. The route's name
published: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
The rock was limestone and mostly not so good quality, but the mountains were steep and beautiful.-Bas van der Smeede From July 9 - August 14, Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Saskia Groen, Bas Visscher and Vincent van Beek pioneered six previously unnamed and unclimbed peaks in an expedition to Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai Mountains. Just north of the Chinese border, the team discovered steep 4,000 - 5,000 meter peaks in the Oibala range. "As far as we could find," said Smeede, "the area has never been ...
published: 9 months ago
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from Vertical Carnival Dispatches
Super psyched to finally share the festival cut of the "Towers of the Ennedi" adventure to Chad. In the past most festival edits are usually locked away for select screenings but in the last year it seems like there has been a huge paradigm shift of the major festival directors and we are able to post such edits for free online without it effecting how they are selected for the big screen
published: 10 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On July 11 Juneau locals Ryan Johnson and Gabe Hayden made the first free ascent of the south buttress on the main tower of the Mendenhall Towers outside Juneau, Alaska. The climb is graded 5.11a, ascending the 2000 foot tower. The South Buttress Direct was first climbed in 1973 by John Svenson and Mike Clark; this recent climb was likely the second ascent of the line. After speaking with Svenson about the line, Johnson went up to the towers in March with friend Jason Nelson climbing a nearby pillar in ...
published: 11 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
We are living in an amazing age. Technology continues to evolve at an astounding rate, and our methods of communications, even from remote places, has turned the planet into one giant global neighborhood. The ability to share our adventures, even while in the field, has changed our perception of exploration, as we are now able to stay in constant contact with explorers that are pushing the boundaries of what we thought was possible.Now days, it seems strange when an expedition sets off without having some
published: 11 months ago
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