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Longs peak speed ascent

Looking up at Longs Peak (center) from the Jim's Grove/Battle Mountain junction. Mt Meeker (left) and Mt Lady Washington (right) are also pictured. I've been planning on doing a fast ascent of Longs for quite a while and it finally came together last weekend. I ended up staying in Estes Park on Saturday night before getting up at 5am and heading to the trailhead with Dave. We hit the trail right at 6 and made fast progress up through the trees, quickly hitting the Jim's Grove/Battle Mountain junction. We


Longs Peak to the Keyhole

The Diamond, Longs Peak (photo from August '08) Yesterday was a beautiful day out, the finish to a week of awesome weather on the Front Range. After spending the morning doing some work inside I decided it was too nice outside to miss out on. I quickly stuffed some extra clothes in my pack, grabbed some water and drove up to the Longs Peak trail head in RMNP. The goal for the day was to get well above treeline and spend several hours at altitude in one of the most beautiful places on earth. I didn't bring


BD athlete Albert Leichtfried makes first ascent of longest icefall in Austria

Black Diamond athlete Albert Leichfried teamed up with Benedikt Purner in early December 2009 to make the first ascent of the longest icefall in Austria, the 1000-meter long Moonwalk (WI 6 M7). Moonwalk is a combination of classic north face climbing with serious waterfall and mixed climbing. Below is a short report and photos Leichtfried sent us about the ascent. Somewhere close to the ridge between the mountains Hohe Warte (2943m) and Sagwand (3227m) in the Zillertal Alps a little runnel has its source.


Sunseeker

Image from Google Yesterday was Mt. Evans day again. I wanted to go try a project at area B, that I had seen photos of earlier this week. I thought it looked really good in the photos, but when we got up there I was blown away. This tall and proud line climbs a sloping rail on a perfect steep overhang, leading to a horrifying mantle high off the deck. It has a good obvious starting hold and about 21 moves, all of them upwards. The bottom part climbing into the stand is probably around V12 and after that you still have to do


Colorado

Image from Google I've been here in Colorado for a couple weeks now and the weather has been anything but good. Actually it's been raining pretty much every day. Still we've managed to get some climbing in. The season is just starting in the park and a lot of the problems in lower and upper chaos are still buried in snow. Freaks of the Industry, V13 Despite the snow, the Green 45 is in the prime right now meaning that I finally got to try Jade, V15. First day that we hiked up there I was definitely not used to the thin air


Nalle repeats Jade, 8C

Nalle Hukkataival is once again in the RMNP. The style of the bouldering there seems to suit him (is there any style that doesn't suit him though?), and he made quick work of Daniel Woods' Jade , 8C, in the Upper Chaos Canyon. "I surprised even myself by doing the famous crux move on my third try. It was too cold to stay warm while resting. I got really close after a few tries from the start, but then split my tips on the tiny crimper." The following day, Nalle went back up despite a bad weather forecast.