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Ibex Direct M8, Never Never Land

Image from Google Yesterday Rob Greenwood made the first ascent of Ibex Direct M8 on the dry tooling wall in the Never Never Land section of the Dinorwig Quarries. Torquil Bennett had previously top roped the line, traversing across the lip of the tunnel at the start. Rob climbed the line second go, missing out the tunnel traverse at [...]


Snake and Ladders

Today's climbing was ruled out by the constant rain which had spread over North Wales. So instead John and I went for an adventure in the slate quarries. We had heard about a journey called Snakes and Ladders by various folk. Its given HVS but the climbing is never difficult. The scary bits are climbing up the ancient ladders and moving over loose slate and rubble. The route goes through all of the main climbing areas, through tunnels, up ladders, down steep rock. I did feel a little short changed as there


The Gainesville Rock Gym

Image from Google A lot has happened since my last post. As most of you know, my residence in Boulder has come to an end and I've moved to Gainesville, FL. Needless to say, things are a bit different here. The people are larger, the food is greasier and the landscape is flatter. At least there's a climbing gym... The Gainesville Rock Gym, vertical toproping, overhang/"lead" wall in the back And that's what I want to talk about today: the merits and failings of the Gainesville Rock Gym . I've been in Gainesville for about


Malham (Again)

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-05-16 Malham (Again) Lucky for us this is such a good cliff, as we don’t have that many world class sport venues. This isn’t Spain . But we do have a few. This is the most important confirmation Adam Ondra has made, the fact that he’s returned for a second week means he must like it here, after all, he could go anywhere in the world for sure. At last he repeated Overshadow and I think reckoned it was a hard 9a+. 7 days of effort confirmed what I always thought, it’s


Super Mellow at Mellow, by Stevie Horizontal Haston

Image from Google Having a chat with Adam Ondra The day was hard, running on empty I went bouldering with a gang of lads and lasses on perfect rough granite, sat, sometimes lied in the sun, and enjoyed the company of young alive people. I interviewed the Prince of climbing Ondra for a Canadian Magazine called Gripped in the late afternoon, which was interesting for us both I think, and a pleasure rather than a trial. I said hello to lots of friends from around the world but most famously to Chris ‘Kinglines’ Sharma and


Winter Wind Down

Image from Google With winter wrapping up, nows a good time to take a breather Bay Area-style. Here are three ways to relax your bones before springing forward. Enlighten Up Nobody does Zen like Green Gulch Farm Zen Center . For nearly 40 years, this Marin County staple of mindfullness has blazed a trail to ahhs. And now its opening its wooden temple doors to the public for a Sunday morning meditation program. Remove your shoes at the door and take a seat on a pillow-cushioned wooden platform. Then, assume the position: ...


Antarctica 2010: A Shift In The Weather

Image from Google The 2010 Antarctic season remains on hold today as ALE's planes continue to be grounded due to poor weather conditions at their Union Glacier base on the continent itself. There does appear to be a light at the end of the tunnel however, as the forecast looks good for a possible weekend start for the first teams heading to the South Pole. Chris Foot sent another dispatch today from Punta Areans, Chile where he reports that the winds have increased in Antarctica, but the amount of snow falling has dropped.


Climbers Aid Archeologists In Mustang Region of Nepal

The National Geographic Adventure Blog was updated this morning with a cool story about world class climbers joined an NG sponsored expedition last summer, and were ultimately able to help archeologists to recover artifacts they may not have had the opportunity to gather on their own. The climbers in question were none other than Pete Athans, who has reached the summit of Everest on seven different occasions, and Renan Ozturk, a rock climber who has tackled big walls all over the planet. The two men were


Light at the end if the Tunnel!

For what seems like months now, well in fact years to be precise I have been travelling down a tunnel that at the end will lead to me hopefully gaining an MSc in Applied Sports Science. I was interested to see that my college is now offering a MSC in this with (outdoor activities), now i am not sure how exactly they are going to offer the outdoor activities or a what kind of practical level. I should really ask a few questions when I am next in school. Now finally I am seeing a light at the end of the ...


Grampians 2009 Trip Report

I'm now back from two weeks in the Grampians . Known as the home of Hollow Mountain Cave bouldering and Taipan Wall (the two primary attractions for visiting Euros), the Grampians host some of the nicest rock in Australia. The first week was spent at Muline Cave and Millenium Caves (both are super steep red caves) which I hadn't visited before. Highlights were Desert Rose 27 at Muline and Tunnel to Caracus 28 at Millenium. I sent my trad gear down in a box ahead of time, and I ended up placing two wires on