from Kevin Jorgeson
This past weekend, I was at Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center in San Diego, CA for the PCI Clinic with Daniel Woods, Ethan Pringle and Angie Payne. What a roster! The participants were PSYCHED and the community showed tremendous support and energy. Daniel, Angie and Ethan did an amazing job instructing, once again demonstrating that the world's best climbers can also be world class instructors. "I was really impressed with all the instructors ability to articulate advanced forms of movement, complex ...
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from The Alpinist - newswire
2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Mild weather and thick ice welcomed more than 3,000 climbers from around the world to the 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival this weekend at the Ouray Ice Park in southwest Colorado. An early season of cold nights and warm afternoons created ideal ice conditions in the park's flooded box canyon, which set the stage for the festival's Elite Mixed Climbing Competition. Nathan Kutcher, in his first appearance at the festival, took home the championship title, beating the only other competitor to top out, Andres
published: 4 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
With Scotland being hammered by the usual January gales and rain, I’ve been directing my climbing attentions over Christmas to a sustained attack on the fantastic TCA bouldering centre in Glasgow. I climbed a mountain of fantastic problems and definitely feel stronger for it, especially on big moves. There’s a lot of climbing space there and there are no shortage of leaps and jumps between the holds (some performance related comments on this over on my other blog ). An uninterrupted spell of good ...
published: 4 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
This news has been covered elsewhere I know, but I want to give props to Alex Biale for his ascent of Rastaman Vibration (v12) on the Grandpa Peabody on December 15. It is interesting to note that, although this line was first climbed by Jared Roth back in 2002, it had never before been repeated! Indeed, Rastaman Vibration begins with one of the hardest moves at the 'Milks, a big move from a miserable pinch to gain a tiny right-hand crimp, feet swinging. Most people now know this move from images or video
published: 4 months ago
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from Climbing Narcissist
16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain. The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque. The accepted grade for this route [...] Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a) from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Possible 5.15a FA By Enzo Oddo Patxi Usobiaga
published: 5 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
published: 5 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Here's a collection of training tidbits from the world's best climber. Adam Ondra's training regime "I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20
published: 5 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
The Amphu Lapcha A quick and cold fair well was given to Baruntse base camp as we got underway for Chukhung. This was expected to be a 12 hour day which would be a shock to the system after trekking for 6 hours at most on the walk in. Walking most of the way with Debbie and Gordon, we all doubted our ability to get over the Amphu Lapcha; however the prospect of failing wasn’t too great as the Amphu Lapcha was the only reasonable way out of the valley other than a helicopter… our time would come for ...
published: 5 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and
published: 5 months ago
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