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Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

Image from Google It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre , who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however,the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several


Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Not a fine day on Ben Nevis.

Two optimistic folk heading up towards Observatory Gully in some less that perfect conditions today. Looking up towards Carn Dearg Buttress in some not very pleasant conditions. If you look carefully you can see the streams being blown back up over the band rock in the middle of the picture. As predicted there was plenty of precipitation today. Unfortunately it was not as cold as expected, and a fair bit of that precipitation fell as rain rather than snow. After a mild night, it did snow down to about 700


Himalaya Fall 2011: Weather Window Slams Shut

Image from Google At the end of last week, the climbing teams in the Himalaya seemed poised to take advantage of a favorable weather pattern to make summit bids early this week. In fact, a number of them had planned on standing on top of their respective mountains today, but that weather pattern shifted, preventing any serious summit attempts. Now, most of the climbers are simply hoping that they'll get another chance before the season ends. Weather forecasts last week seemed to indicate that a front would move through the


Pole To Pole Run Update: Halfway There!

Image from Google A little more than a year ago, I wrote about Australian ultrarunner Pat Farmer , who was planning the massive undertaking of actually running from the North Pole to the South Pole. Since then, I hadn't really heard much about the expedition, but it turns out that it launched on schedule this past spring and Farmer is continuing to make impressive progress. Dubbed the Pole To Pole Run , and not to be confused with the Pole2Pole Expedition , Farmer set off from the North Pole last April and has been heading


Peak Lenin Expedition 2011

Keywords:
Dave.P, climbing, Dave, Wesley, days, Ian, ABC, One, back, BC

Image from Google Peak Lenin It’s now the beginning of September and after a highly eventful and emotional past 4 weeks, I have another long overdue blog to write, whilst I try my upmost to avoid getting burnt in this scorcher of a British summer. It does seem I have been slightly unlucky with the weather, missing the ‘real’ summer this April with a long revision period, however my luck changed during late July and early August as I ventured to Kyrgyzstan, a country famous for..?! What followed was the trip of a ...


Karakoram 2011: All K2 Teams Back In BC

Image from Google K2 continues to be an elusive summit for climbers once again this year, turning back the first wave of mountaineers over the weekend, while others prepared for their own assaults. Yesterday we had word that two Kazakh climbers had reached Camp 4 on the mountain, and indications were that they were hoping to go to the summit, but high winds and heavy snow have forced them back down the mountain, where they hope to get another chance to complete their climb. Maxut Zhumayev checked in today from Base Camp,


6 Day Mountaineering Course

Image from Google Today is the start of our August 6 day Mountaineering Course and the team members are a great team already and are in high spirits. They are ready to learn and will put to use all they learn today in the mountains. They are awaiting clear skies to fly into the Alaska Range. The team listening to Instructor Matt Montavon prior to ascending the fixed lines here at AMS Jason and Hazel practicing fixed line ascention Meanwhile on the Eldridge glacier the snow is falling, it has recieved 8 inches of snow since


Summer 2011 in RMNP

Image from Google I have been trying to get in as much time as possible bouldering in the Park, building up strength and muscle memory for several projects in hopes for sending when the temperatures begin to let up. Most of these trips have been solo, grabbing a window of time when I can for as long as I can. Besides age, this is the primary contrast I have with most boulderers up here. Time, or rather the lack of it. Time is a relentless opponent in the game of getting anything interesting done up here. The season is ...


Karakoram 2011: News From K2

Image from Google While there have been a number of reports from Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums over the past week or so, including news on successful summits , there hasn't been many updates from K2. The climbers on that mountain have been working hard however, as they not only build camps and fix lines, but also acclimatize for the challenging climb ahead. According to Maxut Zhumayev , the team of international climbers that he is a part of have completed fixing their lines up to Camp 3 at 7100 meters (23,293 ft). After