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Antarctica 2011: Felicity Closes In On The Pole

Image from Google It was another productive weekend for the Antarctic skiers heading to the South Pole. The weather was generally good for the past few days, although some of the teams are now reporting a change once again, with high winds working against them, even as they close in on their destination. One of those skiers is Felicity Aston , who has now entered the last degree to the Pole and should be arriving at 90ÂşS in the next few days. It won't be an easy journey to that point however, as she reports very strong ...


2011-11-02 10:30:00

Are Ice Tool Leashes As Archaic as Gaiters, Screamers and Third Tools? The picture above is the last one I could find in my photo collection where I have a leash on a tool--Norway 2005. This is another blog post inspired by a question from a reader. The question was roughly, "I was wondering your take on leashless climbing for beginners? I am a sorta old school ice climber that still uses leashes for those 4 days a year I manage to get out ice climbing. (father in washington state) I feel that I don't get


Julian Zanker Climbs Rätikon Lilith

The Rätikon is a very special area for me. It's always a real pleasure to climb this beautiful, fastidious rock. We climbed a 230 meter long vertical wall named Lilith (7c+) with very small holds. After I broke my wrist I prefer to spend my free time on multi pitch routes. It's always a fantastic experience and after a perfect day like this, I feel tired, out of power, but so lucky and alive. The first pitches were beautiful and after the second one it's very steep. I like :-) It's always great to climb


Julian Zanker Climbs Insonnia In Switzerland

Insonnia is a beautiful multi-pitch route in Ticino, the Italian part of Switzerland. Mostly trad climbing, the route has 16 ptiches: one is rated 7c, 3 are 7a. Three months ago I broke my wrist, so to be climbing multi-pitch routes again makes me happy and motivated. The 5am start begins with a one hour walk to the bottom of the beautiful wall. Morning light touches the summit – perfect conditions. The first three pitches are really wet. So be it. The rest of the route awaits. And it is stunning: clean


Climbing Insonnia

Insonnia is a beautiful multi-pitch route in Ticino, the Italian part of Switzerland. Mostly trad climbing, the route has 16 ptiches: one is rated 7c, 3 are 7a. Three months ago I broke my wrist, so to be climbing multi-pitch routes again makes me happy and motivated. The 5am start begins with a one hour walk to the bottom of the beautiful wall. Morning light touches the summit – perfect conditions. The first three pitches are really wet. So be it. The rest of the route awaits. And it is stunning: clean


Grip, swing

Image from Google A few people emailed to say that my text explanation for how to grip and swing an ice tool wasn't super clear. Here's a fast video shot in my back yard about 30 minutes ago that might help explain the two different grips used to swing and then hang onto an ice tool. A few additional notes on hanging on and swinging: -My hand rotates from the "Swing" to the "Grip" position ever single time I get a placement and then hang off the tool. Easier than it sounds. -The tool rotates around my pinky finger pretty


Climbers Open Big Routes Across Asia

Image from Google In a flurry of activity, climbers from Scotland, Germany, Portugal, Russia, Pakistan, China and Britain established new routes and first ascents in areas throughout Asia this summer, including Afghanistan, Pakistan and China. Pakistan In August, Russians Vjacheslav Ivanov and Oleg Koltunov climbed a new route on the west face of K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan. Italians Lorenzo Angelozzi and Daniele Nardi spent 10 days on the same face and though they established eight pitches over 270


Gear Box: Tech4o Accelerator Watch

Image from Google One of my favorite training tools for running is the Nike+. (See review here ) It is a nice piece of kit that interfaces nicely with your iPod and helps to keep track of your distance, time, and calories burned. The system uses a sensor in, or on, your shoe and a receiver on your iPod to collect the data.Now, Tech4o brings similar technology to their Accelerator watch , delivering a great training tool for runners who like to keep tabs on their distances and progress. The watch has a built in accelerometer


Gear Box: Origo Granite Peak and Rendezvous Peak Altimeter Watches

If you're anything like me, you feel naked without a watch on your wrist. I rarely walk out the door without some kind of timepiece on, whether it's a dress watch when I'm heading out on the town or a sports watch when I'm going for a run. When I was planning for my Himalaya trek I knew that I wanted to take an altimeter watch along to help track my progress. Turns out, thanks to Origo , I took two watches, their Granite Peak and Rendezvous Peak models. For the most part, the functionality of these two ...


A2 pulley injuries review re-posted

Disruption of finger flexor pulleys in rock climbers: prevalence, diagnosis and strategies for rehabilitation. NB: This article was formerly in the articles section of my old website. It was really popular so I’ve reposted it here. Background The sport of rock climbing has developed into a mainstream, competitive sport with considerable popularity. This growth is likely to be partly attributable to the virtual elimination of the significant danger aspect in rock climbing, within the disciplines of sport